im 



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Cbe 



ili 



Science of Shirt Drafting 



SECOND EDITION 



From 
Actual Measurements by 

the Infallible 
Skirt Cutting Device 
Known to the Trade as 
The Infallible Skirt Rule 



(!> 



m 



i\ 



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Proprietor of The Pebfection Tailor System of Dress Cutting, 

The Ladies' Tailor Jacket and Coat Method, 

Perfection Shirt Waist System, Etc. 

AUTHOR AND PROPRIETOR. 

1535 MASSACHUSErrs Street, - Lawrence, Kans.vs. 



The 

Science of Skirt Draftim 



SECOHD EDITION 



From Actual Measurements by 

The Infallible Skirt Cutting Device 

Known to the Trade as 

The Infallible Skirt Rule 



W. R. WILLIAMS, 

Proprietor of The Perfection Tailok System of Deess 

Cutting, The Ladies' Tailor Jacket and Coat 

Method, Perfection Shirt Waist System, 

ETC., ETC. 

AUTHOR AND PROPRIETOR. 
1535 Massachusetts Street, Lawrence, Kansas 

Copyright 1908, by W. R. Williams 



^ 



JUN 5 VdOb 
30t*r J. 



TAHU: OF CONTENTS 



Ivxplutiationaiul Dcscrijilion 

Measures used 

Seven tJore Skirl 

Flow to Draft Trout (Jore 

llnw 1(1 Draft First Side Gore 

il<i\\ til 1 )raft Second Side Core 


Pa 
4 

5 
5- 
6 
7- 
8- 
f(- 
11 


GE 

-8 
-9 


Ili.w to Draft IJaclvlJore 


-10 


Five (lore Skirt 


]■' 


Testimonials 


13 




Circular Skirts with Darts 

Tliree Piece Skirl .. . 


14- 
. . 16- 


-15 
-17 


Diagram Explaining Hip Curves 


18 




Circular Skirt Without Darts . 


19- 


-'0 


Nine Ciore Skirt 


21- 


-??. 


Eleven Gore Skirt .. 

Twelve Gore Skirt 


23^ 

25 


24 


Shirt Waist System,. 

Circular Flounce Skirt 


25 

26 




The Mysteries of Flounce Cutting Explained 

Special Diagrams for Stout I-'orms, etc . . 


27-28-29 

.. . 30-31 


Sheath I'itting Skirt with I'lares 


.32- 


33 


Pleated Skirts 


33- 

34 

35 

35- 


-34 


Yoke Skirts 


35 


Five Gore Skirt, Sweep Length. 

Seven Gore Princess 


36 
-37 


Eight Gore Princess 

Bicvcle Skirt 


38 

39 
40- 




Five Gore Skirt with Narrow Side 


-41 


Skirt willi Trains . .'.i 


...... 41- 


1' 


Full Skirts 

Jacket and Coat Method 

Circular Skirt with Triple Darts 

Revised Scales for 5. 7. n, 11, 13, 15, IT.auil 1!) Gore Skirts 

Other Sl<irts, I lints on Designing, elc 


42 
43 

44-45 

46 to 53 
55-56 



^' ^^^^^^<-tJ^> 




INTRODUCTION. 

THK IIVFALLIBLE SIvIRT RULE. 

HIS NEW Skirt System provides a scientific, yet practical device for drafting 
rt all styles and sizes of skirts by actual measurements, with the measures 

^^ necessary reduced to the fewest possible number. Systems for waist and 
sleeve drafting are numerous, and are really indispensible; for every exper- 
ienced cutter realizes that a perfect fitting waist and sleeve must have for 
their foundation a faultless lining. This is likewise true of skirts, for un- 
less a skirt fits and hangs perfectly, and its several gores are well propor- 
tioned, its beauty and efi'ect is practically ruined. The Infallible, however, 
is the only System on the market for cutting skirts exclusively, which pro- 
vides a perfect outline, with graceful lines and curves at waist, over hips and bottom 
edge. It is likewise the only device giving the exact width of each gore at tiiese three 
essential points, a feature which virtually reheves the operator of all proportioning, 
calculating, or anxiety concerning good fitting and hanging results. 

Other commendable qualities of this Skirt Rule are that it is easily learned and 
operated, and remarkably rapid, consuming far less time than patterns. 

In this issue of our instruction book, we have endeavored to explain every detail 
of skirt di-af ting, thus making it po; .-ible, if necessary, for a dress maker of limited ex- 
perience to learn the use of the Riiic without oral instruction. The assistance ren- 
dered by a competent teacher however will be of great service, which can hardly be es- 
timated in dollars and cents. 

The diagrams shown in this book include nearly all the standard shapes, which prac- 
tically form the basis of all skirt cutting. 

The moderate cost of this System will be greatly appreciated when compared 
with the much greater expense of merely learning the art of skirt cutting, by tape line 
and straight-edge, as taught in the large cities, when no text book, scales giving the 
exact proportion for gores, curves, or method of any kind is furnished. 

In conclusion would say, that the Infallible Skirt Rule with this book of instruc- 
tion offers more valuable information on skirt cutting than all others combined, is the 
honest judgment and belief of the 

Author. 



Explanation and Description 



THE lnfallil)lf Skirt liule for convcniciue of operation lias been made in one 
piece, similar in shape to the back norc of a skirt. They arc usually shipped 
from factory in the form of a roll, but are i)rovi(lc(l with hangers at top edge, with 
which, wiien not in use, they sliould be hung up near drafting table. 



MEASURES EACH 
SEAM 



»:« 

The Rule is provided witlian iiicii scale, somewhat resembling 
a tape measure extending around its entire outer edge. When 
using the Rule it is placed on the goods or pa|)cr with the front 
edge directly in front of the operator. 
The upper edge, corresponding to tlie waist line, will then be to tlie left, the lower 

edge representing the bottom of skirt to the right; and the far edge corresponding to 

the back of gore, directly across from front. 

^l 

The use of the several Adjustable Slides and Tointers indicating 
ADJUSTABLE proper hip curvature, which are located at top and sides of Rule, 
SLIDES, ETC. will each be explained as wc proceed with the instructions. 



The large capital letters near center of Rule indicate certain 

MEANING OF lines and scales used in drafting, to which we shall have occa- 

LARGE LETTERS sion to refer from time to time. The other words and lines of 

reading matter on Rule are self explanatory, yet will be more 

fully explained when drafting the different gores. 



The several Revised Scales printed on pages 46 to 52 inclusive 
REVISED SCALES now form a part of this book. Am sure they will be appreciat- 
AND WHERE FOUND ed by skirt cutters as they show tlic exact width to mark for 
each gore at waist, hip and bottom edge. 



Three hands or pointers are printed on each side of Skirt Rule; 
VARIATIONS IN designated as Stout, Medium and Slender figures, whicii are to 
CURVE OVER HIPS be placed at the respective dots made at waist line, when draft- 
ing the side lines over the hip for the different forms. 
As we shall often refer to those Pointers, Scales, and the different Hip Curves, would 
advise that the notes explaining them, found on pages 18, 19, 44, be carefully studied. 
The several dotted lines and perforations near edges and in 
DOTTED LINES center of Rule, are for giving width of gores at bottom edge, 
AND PERFORATIONS and producing "sheath fitting effect." 



The number of working measures employed when using the Infallible are four, 

Size around Waist,— usually taken tight. 

Size around Hips, — taken around figure, about 5| inches below waist line. 

Length in Front, — taken from waist line to floor. 

Length at Back, — taken from waist line to floor. 



If a shorter skirt is desired, first take the measures to the floor 
SHORT SKIRTS, and then deduct from these lengths the number of inches you 
wish it shortened, or if longer add whatever is necessary. 



We have found in practice that sometimes one hip is a little 
lower than the otiier, and occasionally the hips are so large that 
greater length of skirts over hips become necessary, hence for 
such, and very stout figures, take two or three additional meas- 
ures, viz: 

Length over right hip, — taken from waist line over right hip to floor. 

Length over left hip, — taken from waist line over left hip to floor. 

Length at each seam, from waist line to floor, when cutting for very stout 



ita 



TEST OR PROOF 
MEASURES. 



figures. 



»•• 



Seven Gore Skirt 



•o« 



Will begin our instructions and practice work by drafting an ordinary Seven Gore 
■Skirt, for the following working measures: 

Size around waist, 24 inches. 

" " hips, 4I2 " 
Length in front, ; 40 " 
Length at back, 42 



Examine Revised Scale, page 


47, from which the figures on 


the following slip were 


Mark for width of ) front 
gores at waist S . . 2 in 


1st SIDE 


2NDSIDE 


BACK SPACE 


4|in. . 


5|in. 


2 in. 


Make width at hip.. . . 3| M 


6iS 


7M 


4 in. 


Width, lower edge 9 


14J 


16J 


22 in. . 



Tlie ScicMcc of Skirt hr.iftin 



FRONT GORE. 

To draft front ^'urc for tlii.s sUirl, lirst jjlacc Skirt Kiilc 
i>n fold of goods, with Top Slide drawn out, which slrainht- 
cns and coniiilctes front edge of Hide. Now mark at 2 on 
waist lino of Hide for widlli of front gore at top, and from 
that point draft waist line from 2 to A on Diagram No.l. 
-Now mark opposite oA on front edge of Unie to designale 
point wiiere hip measure is taken from * tiien at -10 on 
front edge of Uuic, for iengtii in front; then mark through 
perforation in Scale No. 2 ("Lengtli of front gore at back 
edge") in 40^ (thus dropi)ing h inch to allow for e.xtra 
Iengtii over hip) which gives e.xact length of side seam, 
and ap])ro.\imate width at gore. Now move Rule up till 
it coincides with dots just made at 40 and 40], and mark 
at 9 on inch scale at bottom edge of Skirt l{ule, whicli we 
lind, byieferring to measure slip, is the exact width re- 
quired at i)ottom edge. Then before removing Rule 
draft bottom line, from H to C on Diagram. 



sss 



Ne.xt draw Skirt Rule down to hip 
HIP MEASURE. measure outline, and with upper left 

hand corner resting at ])oint oi (on 
diagram) dot at the 31 inch mark on inch scale for width 
of front gore at hip 

NOTE — *We find in practice that some persons are longer from waist line to 
hip than others, hence we sometimes measure down 5^ and again fi inches. i>r 
Diagram No. 1 . incire. but use oi as the standard. 

Next i)lace Skirl Rule with Pointer designating the Medium Figure (marked "M" 
in Scales) at the 2 incii mark on waist line, then draft side line from this point to the 
3\ inch mark at iiip, and unless the width at bottom edge requires the moving of the 
Rule in or out, draft the entire side line witii liack edge of Rule from jioints '.i\ to 9 
at lower edge, point C on Diagram. 




SHEATH FITTING 
EFFECT 



If Sheath lilting and llaring effect is desired, place Rule back 
on draft jusl made, w itii ligure 5^ on its back edge resting at the 
3\ inch hip mark, and the remainder of back edge jilaced even 
with back line just drawn. 
Then mark through the several perforations found just above "M" near back edge 

of Rule, from 8J down to 28-1, which will produce this effect. 

The Flare Slide may then be drawn out, and the draft continued by using its 

back edge to draft with, from 28\ to bottom edge, or D on Diagram, then with lower 

edge of I'lare Slide draft remainder of bottom line from D to Cwliich completes front 

gore. 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 



FIRST SIDE GORE, 

To draft first side gore, place Skirt Rule 
on paper or goods at least a couple of inches in 
from front edge to allow for flare, if desired. 

The Top Slide should now be pushed back 
to place, as both edges of side gore need to be 
curved. 

Now mark at 4| on waist line of Rule for 
width of this gore at top. 

The actual width, however, is but 3i inches, 
as 1 inch is taken off at front edge for curve. 

For further explanation of this feature, see 
note at bottom of page 46. 

Now from the 4i inch mark, draft waist 
line back to front edge (4* to E on Diagram No. 
2.) 

Now mark opposite 5J on front edge of Rule, ■ 
at hip measure outline, then mark at 40^ on 
front edge of Rule for length in front. 

Then mark through perforations in No. 
3 row of perforations (designated as Length of 
side gores at back edge) in 41, thus lengthening 
the side seam over hip another half inch, which 
gives exact length of side line and approximate 
width of gore. 

Next move Rule so that 
WIDTH AND CURVE bottom edge coincides 
OF LOWER EDGE with dots made at 40i 
and 41, and make an- 
other dot at the 14J inch mark, which is 
the exact width of this gore according to Scale, for plain skirt, but if flare is desired, 
then add for width of same straight out from the Hi inch mark from "G" to "H" 
on Diagram. Then after moving Rule toward you until lower right hand corner 
comes even with dot made at 14i, and lower edge near front rests on dot made at 
401, draft bottom line from G to F on Diagram with lower edge of Rule. 

Now move Rule up until Pointer indicating Medium Figure rests at front edge of 
waist line (point E on Diagram) as that was the Pointer used when drafting back edge 
of front gore, and the front edge of this gore should have the same curve. Then draft 
front line down to mark made at 40i (E to F on Diagram.) 




Diagram No . 2 . 



Next draw Skii-t Rule down to Hip Measure outline, and after 
HIP MEASURE drawing Top Slide out, measure straight out from 5| (on Dia- 
gram) across gore 6^ inches, for width at liip. Then place 
Skirt Rule with hand indicating Stout Figure, at the 4| inch mark at waist line, 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 



draft sidr line witli back v(\u.i- of Rule; (irst to the 6} dot at hip, then to the 14} mark 
at bottom of gore, point (J on Diagram. 



If Shealh fitting and flaring efl'ect is desired, phice Kule bark on 
SHEATH FITTING draft witli Figure 5J on its back edge, resting on llie OJ hip 
EFFECT nieasnrc mark, and the remainder of back edge of Hule coincid- 

ing witii hne previously drawn. Then proceed to mark through 
perforations between 8^, and 2H\ on back edge of Rule, then draw Flare Slide out for 
producing liaring effect (and draft down to 11 on Diagram) as instructed on front gore. 
We do not show llarc on front edge of these side gores on Diagrams, but the front 
edge of Rule is also provided with perforations and Flare so that both edges may 
be flared if desired. Many skirt cutters contend tiiat all side gores for "sheath fitting" 
and flaring skirts should be the same on both sides, as shown by Diagram 14 on page 32. 



SECOND SIDE GORE, 

To draft second side gore. Place Skirt Rule on paper or goods two or tliree inches 
in from front edge, to allow for flare on front side if desired. The Top Slide should 
again be pushed back, as botii edges are to be curved. 

Now mark at 5} on waist line of Rule for width at top and from the 5j inch mark 
draft waist line back to front edge {5J to I on Diagram No. 3.) 

Ne.xt mark opposite 5i for hip measure on front edge of Rule, then at 41 for length 
of gore in front. 

Then mark tlirough perforations in No. 3, row of perforations (Length of side gore 
at back edge) in 41 J, which gives exact length of side line, and approximate width at 
lower edge. 

Now move Rule up until lower edge coincides with dots made 
WIDTH AND CURVE at 41 and AU and make another dot at 16i for actual width at 
OF LOWER EDGE lower edge for plain skirts. 

If flare is desired add for width straight out from the 16J mark 
as previously instructed, (K to L in Diagram.) 

Next move Rule toward you until lower right hand corner rests at the 16^ inch 
mark, and lower edge coincides with that dot, and the one made at 41 in front, when 
draft lower edge (K to J on Diagram.) 

.\ow move Rule up until Pointer indicating Stout Figure rests at dot made at 
waist line (point I on Diagram) as that was tiie curve given to inside edge of first side 
gore, then draft front line down to mark made at 41 (I to J on Diagram.) 



Now draw Rule down to hip measure outline, tiien draw Front 
HIP MEASURE Slide out, and measure straiglit across 7 inches from 5^ to the 

7 mark on Diagram. Next place Medium Pointer at 5^ inch 
mark on waist line, and draft side seam with back edge of Rule first to the 5| inch 
mark at iiip, then to the 16} inch mark at lower edge of gore. 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 



To produce this effect, place Rule back on draft with figure 5h 
SHEATH FITTING, on its back edge resting on 7 liip measure mark, and tlie re- 
mainder of back edge coinciding with side line clear down to the 
16J inch mark. 

Then proceed to dot tiirough perforations 
along back edge of Rule as previously instruct- 
ed, down to 28J point, when Flare Shde should 
be drawn out and the draft continued to dot 
made at L in Diagram. If sheath fitting and 
flare is desu-ed, at front edge, draw out front 
Flare Slide and proceed as above directed. 

BACK GORE. 

To draft back section for seven gore skirt. 

First place Skirt Rule on material as pre- 
viously instructed, with Top Slide in, as the 
front edge of this gore which joins second 
side gore must likewise be curved. 

Ne.xt mark at .3 on waist line for width at 
top, thus making it 2 inches wide, which is 
the width given in Scale for this size of waist. 
Next draft waist line from 2 to front edge 
(2 to M on Diagram No. 4.) 

Now mark opposite 5J on front edge for 
hip measm-e, then at 41 1 for length in front. 

Then mark at^back edge opposite 42, which 
gives exact length and approximate width of 
gore at lower edge. 

Now move Rule up until its lower edge 
coincides with dot made at 41 i in front and 
42 at back, wlien with this edge draft bottom 
line from 2Z at lower right hand corner to dot 
made at 4H in front. to N on Diagram. 
Then move Rule until Pointer indicat- 
ing Medium Figure rests on front edge of waist hue, at M on Diagram, then draft 
front line down to 41 J M to N on Diagram. 




Diagram No . 3 . 



Next draw Rule down to Hip Measure outline, and with Top 
HIP MEASURE. Slide drawn out, measure from 5| on front line across gore, the 

exact width at hip, which in this size is 4 inches, 6 to 4 on Dia- 
gram. 



10 



The Science of Skirt Draft iiij:. 



I'ur a Habit Hai k, take front ccIrc of Kiilc with Top Slide drawn 

CENTER OF BACK out. and draft a slrait^lit line from 2. at waist down to \ at 

liip, tlien to the 22 inch mark at lower cdfjc. 2 to O on l)iaj,'rani. 

For pleats or other ful- 
ness, add bejond the 2 
indi mark on waist line, 
also at bottom edge, the 
desired amount as shown 
by additional lines on Dia- 
gram. 

33C 

When 
EXTRA LENGTH using 
REQUIRED pleats 

greater 
lieiglit must be given at 
top, lience another Slide 
lias been provided at waist 
line of Rule, for that pur- 
pose. So when wishing 
to draft beyond tlie 2 inch 
mark, draw tiiis Slide up, 
and draft a line straigiit 
out from 2, sufficient in 
length to cover widtii of 
pleats from 2 to P on Dia- 
trram. 



Tlie eas- 
TO SHAPE iest and 
BACK GORE quickest 
way to ob- 
ain final shape of this 
gore at top, and bottom 
edge, is to fold pleat or 
pleats as shown in part 2 
of this Diagram. Then 
after tukinj^ a ])niu[ measure from waist band to bottom edge of skirt, trim off at least 
the uneven points, which always extend above at top, and below at lower edge after 
pleats are folded back. 

The dotted lines at top, and from Q to R at bottom edge of part 2, shows the 
finished shape of the back gore with pleats. 




Diagram No. 4. 



Five Gore Skirt 






To draft a plain Five Gore Skirt for the following measures: 

Size around waist . . 20 inches. 

" liips . . 36 inches. 

Length in front, . 40 inches. 

Length at back .... 42 inches. 

Mark for width of |. front 
gores at waist ' — 1} 

Make width at hip 2* SI 

Width lower edge 8 



SIDE 


.ALLOWING D.iRT 


B.^CK 


9h 


1 J inches wide. 


liin 


12 J M 




3 in 


30 




22 in 



Proceed as follows: 



FRONT GORE. 



Place Skirt Rule on fold of material with Top Slide drawn out. Now mark at 1§ 
on Waist Line of Rule, for width at top, and from that mark draft same from 1 J to S on 
Diagram No. 5. 

Next mark opposite 5| on front edge of Rule for hip measure, then at 40, on front 
edge, for length in front. 

Ne.xt mark through perforations in scale No. 2, in 40^, which gives exact length 
of side seam, and approximate width of gore. 

Next move Rule up mitil its lower edge coincides with dots made at 40 and 40^, 
then mark at 8 on inch scale for exact width, and when Rule is in that position, draft 
lower edge from the 8-mark to dot made at 40 on front edge, T to U on Diagram. 

HI 

Next draw Skirt Rule down to the 5| inch mark on front edge, 
HIP MEASURE. and measure across gore 3 inches, for width at hip. Now move 

Rule up until the Pointer indicating Slender Figure (marked SI 
in scales) rests on waist line at Figure U on Diagram. Then with back edge of Rule 
draft inside line down to the 3 at hip, then the entire length to dot made at 8. Point 
T on Diagram. 

NOTE — In case this edge of Rule, when drafting from Medium or Slender Pointer is not long enough to 
reach dot at lower edge, draft from waist line a little past hip measure, when Rule may be moved down sufficient to 
reach it. 



To draft this side Gore, which is too wide for waist line, on 
SIDE GORE Rule proper: First, draw the Extension Curve, underneath 

Rule, out of loop, and fasten it in an extended position by push- 
ing tlie button (near lower edge) over back of Rule at Star. 



12 



I'lic Science of Skirt Drafting. 



Now placf Kiilc in position on material, and mark at 9J| for width of gore at top, 
then mark at 4i and 5J on waist line llicn in center perforation of dart outline, on 




Diagram No. s■ 



Rule f or a dart 1 i inches wide.and 4 inches deep.which places it in about the center of 
gore. If more desirable, this dart could be located directly over the hip, by taking a 
measure from center of front to hip, and then applying that measure to inch scale on 
waist line of Rule. 

Next mark opposite 5h on front edge, for hip measure, then at 40^ for length in 
front, then mark peuuration at 41 in No. 3 row of perforations for length in center, and 
appro.ximate width of § this gore. 

Now move Rule up until lower edge coincides witii dot made at 40i in front, and 
41 in No. 3 row, when another dot should be made at 15, which is just half its width; 
then'from that dot draft bottom edge from 41 to 40| on Diagram. 

Ne.xt place Pointer, indicating Slender Figure, on waist line, (point \' in Diagram) 
and draft front line down tile entire length of front Vto41^. 

Next draw Front Slide out, and measure straight across gore 12i inches , for width 
at hip. 

Now place Extension Curve back in loop, then place upper right corner of Rule at 
waist line (point W on Diagram) letting the lower front edge rest at the 15 mark. 

Next dot through perforation in No. 3 Scale again; then move Rule up until lower 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 13 

edge coincides with the first dot made at 15, and this dot just made; then make another 
mark at 15 on lower edge of Rule for remainder of the width (15 inches) after which 
draft bottom line from lower right hand corner (X to 41 on Diagram.) 

Now place Rule with Medium Pointer resting on waist line at W, and with its 
back edge draft first to the liip mark at 12|, then down to X on Diagram. 

Then with upper curved part of front edge, draft back line of dart, and with up- 
per back edge, draft front line of dart, which completes this gore. 

BACK GORE. 

To draft Back Gore: Place Rule on material as previously instructed. Mark at 
2 J on waist line Scale (which makes it I5 inches net) for width at top. 

Then make a mark opposite 5h for hip, and another at 41 J for length. Next mark 
at 42 on back edge for length there, also approximate width. Then draw Rule up until 
it coincides with this, and mark made in front, and make another mark at ZZ for width 
at bottom edge when with lower edge of Rule, draft bottom hne from 42 to Y on Dia- 
gram. Then with front edge of Rule,with Top Slide out draft back edge from Z to 42. 
which completes Habit back. If pleats are desired, proceed as instructed on back of 
Seven Gore Skirt. 

*.*^ M^ ^M 
«•> ««S 7S 
^\ #«^ tf*^ 

W. R. Williams & Son. _ _ _ New York City, October 21, '97. 

I have had excellent success in using your Skirt Sysem and teaching it to others. 
Think it the most practical skirt cutting device ever invented. 

Mrs. Ella B. Dart. 

No. 53, West 140th Street. 

W. R. Williams & Son. _ Sioux City, Iowa, July 15, 1901. 

Dear Sir: The New Skirt Cutting Device is certainly the finest thing in its way 
that has ever been placed before the Dress Making Public. I am more than pleased 
with it. Miss M. Dkvy, 

1006 Pierce Street. Ladies Tailor. 



W. R. Williams & Son. Norfolk, Neh., July 20, 1903. 

Am more than pleased with my New Skirt System, purchased of Mrs. Champlin, 
and find it truly an "INFALLIBLE" device for cutting any and all kinds of skirts. 
I am using it every day with perfect success. Miss Mary Shelley. 

W. R. Williams & Son. Hartford, S. Dak., March 13, 1902. 

My experience with the Infallibfle Skirt Rule has shown me that it is the most 
practical Skirt Cutting System on the market. Miss Minnie Beals. 

W. R. Williams & Son. Morristown, Penna., May 5, 1901. 

I am very much pleased with the Skirt Rule and find it perfectly satisfactory. 
I have been using it all winter and spring with the best results. 
916 AVest Lafayette Street. Miss F. Browne. 

W. R. Williams & Son. Peoria, III., Feb. 7, 1901. 

I find the Infallible Skirt Rule the finest device I have yet seen, and can recom- 
mend it for cutting any size or style of skirt. Eleanor C. Carey. 



Tn (If.ift lliis Skirt lor llic lollowiti},' nicasiin's: 

Size aroiitul waist . . 24 inches. 

Iiips .42inchps. 

Lciifilli ill front . . .38iiH-lies. 

Lentjlli at l>adi . . .40 iiulics. 

First, draw out the l^xteiisioii Curve, and adjust same in an extended position, as 
previously explained. 




Diagram No. 6. 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 15 

Next, place Rule on fold of goods, with Top Slide out, and make a dot at 16J 
on waist line, for width of half of skirt at waist. If pleats are desired, add beyond 
the 16| mark the necessary width for same. Then draft waist line from the 16i 
mark to front edge of Rule. 

Next, mark at 4 and 6 on waist line for width of first dart, then at 10 and 12J 
for width of second dart. Then through lower center perforation at bottom of dart 
outline on Skirt Rule, and at lower edge of Extension Curve directly under outline 
of dart, for lower points of first and second darts. Next make a mark opposite 5^ 
on front edge of Rule for Hip Measure. 

This process saves all calculating in this way. By marking at I65 on waist line 
(and at other figures for other sizes) then taking out 4^ inches in darts, it leaves just 
12 inches, which is J the waist measure. Draft Hip Measure. Next measure across 
pattern, with Extension Curve, from dot placed at 5§, 21 inches for Hip Measure, and 
make a dot at back edge. The Extension Curve should then be placed back in loop 
underneath Rule. 

NOTE — The several perforations under outline of darts on Rule, and Extension Curve, are for the purpose of 
placing lower points of darts directly under t-heir centers, as they vary both in width and depth when cutting for dif- 
ferent sizes. 

^l 

Next mark at 38 on front of Rule for length of Skirt in front, 
TO MARE FIRST then through perforations at 39, in the row of perforations 
WIDTH near back edge of Rule where it directs to mark for first width 

of circular skirt. Notice that we drop a full inch here in- 
stead of 2, on account of its being wider than an ordinary front gore. This gives 
the exact length and approximate width of first part. 

NOTE — We find in' practice that it take= nearly 3 widths of the Skirt Rule, to give sufficient breadth to the 
bottom edge of an ordinary skirt. 

Now draw up Rule until bottom edge coincides with dot made through perfor- 
ation 39, and mark made at 38 in front, and make a dot at 20 on Scale on lower edge of 
Rule; which gives exact width of first part, then from the 20 mark, draft lower edge 
from 20 to 38 on Diagram. 5J5 

To mark 2nd width, move Rule over until front edge (just above 
TO MARE FOR hip measure outline) abuts against back edge of first width, and 

SECOND WIDTH waist line of Rule coincides with waist line of draft, and the 
lower front edge of Rule rests on the 20 mark on Diagram. 
Then make another mark at '391 on back edge of Rule for length, and approxi- 
mate width at bottom edge. 

Now draw Rule up until its lower edge coincides with dots previously made at 
20 and just now made at 39k, then mark at 20 again on lower edge for exact width of 
second part, after which draft bottom line from second 20 to first 20 on Diagram. 



Next move Rule over again until its upper right hand corner 
TO MARE FOR rests at dot made at I65 on waist line, and the back edge 

THIRD WIDTH. rests at the 21 inch Hip Mark. Then mark at 40 for length at 

back, then draft the back line from waist down to the 21 
inch Hip Measure. 



10 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 



mark, then down to the dot just made on back edge at 40, next move Rule up and 
from tlie 40 inch mark with lower cd{je of Rule, draft bottom line from 40 at back 
edge to second 20 near center of Diagram. 



^ Three Piece Skirt ^ 



The accompanying Diagram, Xo. 7, shows a three piece skirt for the following 
measures: 

Size around waist . . 20 inches. 

hips . 38 inches. 

Length in front . . .41 inches. 

Length at back . . 4fi inches. 




The Science of Skirt Drafting. 17 

The front gore of this Skirt as shown on Diagram, is drafted separately from the 
remainder of Skirt, but afterwards for convenience in making remainder of draft is 
pinned to it. 



After drafting front gore, as previously instructed on page 6, 

HOW DRAFT and allowing for seam on inner edge (line B on Diagram) cut out 

IS MADE. and pin its inner or bias edge (over onto the straight edge 

(line C on Diagram) of another piece of goods or paper (after 

curving and allowing for seam at its front edge also) sufficiently wide to draft a 

circular skirt with darts. The figures 9 and 11 at bottom edge of diagram 20,make up 

the 20 inches which is the first of the three sections we use in drafting Circular Skirt. 

After fastening gore to wider section of material for remainder of Skirt, draw out 
the Extension Curve from loop, and with front edge of Skirt Rule laid on line A of front 
gore, proceed as instructed on drafting Circular Skirt. 

First mark for two darts, each one inch wide, on Extension Curve, and as but 3^ 
inches will then be taken out in the two darts and curves of front gore, and front edge 
•of wide section, instead of 4^ as provided in calculation of regular Circular Skirt draft- 
ing; mark at 14i on waist line of Extension Curve instead of 15j. 



The two darts of one inch each, and the curve on edges of fines 

TO FIT DIFFERENT B and C, drawn from Pointer indicating Slender Figure, wiU fit 

FIGURES. a slender or even medium form, but for stout figures wider darts 

and greater curves must be provided. 
The figure indicating exact perforation to mark in at back edge of first width, for 
example as shown in Diagram, is 42. At back edge of second width mark at 43 for 
length at that point, and at back edge of third width mark first at 44, then draw Rule 
down 2 inches and make another mark which would make center of back line or E 
46 inches long. When drafting line be sure to first draft to the dot made at a point 5J 
or 6 inches below waist line where hip measure was taken from, then to the 46 at bot- 
tom edge. 



It is impossible to give any exact rule for locating darts, e.x- 
DARTS. cept for a certain style of figure, as their width and position 

changes for different forms. Would, however, advise that the 
method of drafting Skirt with tripple dart on pages 44 and 45 be carefully studied. 

r^ 

Would again call your attention to the importance of learning 

MASTER THE the Rule thoroughly, so that all its principles may be utilized, 

PRINCIPLES as then the Skirt System can be readily applied to the drafting 

THOROUGHLY. of any size or style of skirt now worn, or that may be designed 

in the future. 



18 



The Science of Skirl Dnifling. 




Diagram No. 8. 



It is also important to become verj' familiar with the proper 
THE CURVE adjustment of the Pointers, indicating the several hip curves, 

INDICATORS. for the fit and hanging effect of a skirt depends very largely 

upon these curves and other lines employed. Shall have oc- 
casion to refer to these Pointers often and for illustrations relative to their use see 
arrows and letters at hip measure points on Diagram No. 8. 



By these terms we mean the width of back gore at waist line. 
BACK SPACE OR In 5 to 9 Gore Skirts we usually'set aside about one twelfth of 
FULLNESS. the waist measure for back space. 

In 11 to 19, or greater numbers of gores we make this space 
still narrower as shown in Reversal Scales. 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 



19 



We usually add double the width of back space for single pleat, 
WIDTH AND or four times its width for double. Always draft pleat at least 
HEIGHT OF an inch higher than top of back space, else when folded back 

PLEAT it will be too short. See special directions on page 10. 

Diagram No 8 illustrates, first, how to overcome with the Infallible, the tendency 
which skirts sometimes have to fall forward; second, how to allow for fullness, or back 
space, and to provide the exact height and width of pleat for any measurement; third, 
it demonstrates how the Pointers on both sides of the Skirt Rule, for giving the proper 
curve over hips, may be used to the best advantage when drafting for the difi'erent 
figures; likewise how to proportion each gore correctly, according to a given hip meas- 
ure. 



TO PREVENT FALL- 
ING FORWARD. 



If from J to J of an inch is taken off waist hne, at back edge of 
front and first side gores, as shown by dotted lines. Points A 
and B on Diagram, the tendency to fall forward wil' usually 
be overcome. 



The figures 3|, 6i, 6f and 4, located 5J inches below waist Hne 

HIP MEASURES on Diagram No. 20 show how wide to make each gore for 24 inch 

AND CURVES, waist and 41§ hip measure. The several arrows on Diagram 

show just where the Pointers on Skirt Rule should be placed on 
draft to give the desired curve. Should you have a larger hip measure, for same size 
waist, then select the required hip measure from those given in Scale, and draft each 
gore according to the figures given opposite that particular measure, instead of using 
those set under 24 and opposite 41 j. See special directions on page 8. 

The large letter M, indicate that "Medium" should be used when drafting 
back edge of front, and front edge of first side gore. The letters S, show that " Stout " 
should be used for back edge of first side and front edge of second side andso on. 



{* Circular 6kirt Without Darts 



dfc'^ifc' 



To draft this Dartless Circular Skirt for the following measures: 

Size around waist . . 2,2 inches. 
Size around hips . . 40 inches. 
Length in front . . 40 inches. 
Lentgth at back . 43 inches. 

Begin by placing Skkt Rule on fold of goods, with Top Slide drawn out. Then 
make a mark at figure 3 on inch scale at waist, and draft line from that mark to front 
edge. Then from the dot made at 3 to figure 1 1 , at upper right hand corner of Diagram 



20 



Tlic Science of Skirt Dnftiiifi. 



Oentre of Back 




DARTLESS CICULAR SKIRT. 
For 22 inch Waist Measure. 




DIagr a ir Kc 



No. 9, draw a curved line with an 81 incii sweep of tape, which gives correct curve for 
22 inch waist measure, l)ut \ inch more must be added to length of sweep for every ad- 

(hlioiia! two inches in size of waist. 

To make this «l inch sweep we mention: First, measure straigiit up from the 
figure 3 on Diagram a distance of 8^ inclies, and make a dot, then after winding tape 
around pencil, which should be iicld in the right hand, and holding the tape iirmly with 
the left liand at this dot, a curve with the pencil can easily be made from figures 3 to 11 
on Diagram. 

The goods being I'oldcd, wc llicii measure from front edge (point 1 on Diagram on 
this curve a distance equal to '. I lie waist measure, whicii in this case is 11 inclics, (I to 
1 1 on Diagram.) 

Now in order to have jxiints frum ulijch in t;il<c proof measures, we divide this 
waist curve into (i\c ciiual s|jacc,s, namely: .'i .\, H. (' and I). 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 



21 



Now make a dot on front edge 5^ inches below waist line for hip 

DRAFT HIP measure. Then with tape line measure 5J inches down from 

MEASURE. 3-A, B, C and D for guide marks. Next with tape line measure 

across patten througli these guide marks 20 inches, which is ^ the 
hip measure in this draft. 

Next mark at 40 on front edge of Rule for length in front, then draw Rule up until 
lower edge near front rests at the 40 mark, the mark at 15 on inch scale of lower edge 
for first space, then from point 3, at waist line, take a proof measure with back edge of 
Rule, and make a dot at 41 on a line with the 15 mark; then from the 41 mark to the 
40 in front, draw bottom line of first space, from 41 just above 15 to 40 on Diagram. 

Next, measure off another space of 15 inches with scale on bottom edge of Rule, 
and take another proof measure from point A on waist line down on a line towards tlie 
second 15, and make a mark on back edge of Rule at 41J. Then draw Rule up and 
draft bottom line of second space from 41 1 to 41. 

Now measure off from the 41i dot on bottom line, another space of 15 inches and 
make a dot. Then take a proof measure from B, at waist line, down towards this 15 
mark, and make another dot at 42 on back edge of Rule, then draw it up to the 42 and 
41i dot, and with bottom edge of Rule draft lower line from 42 to 41 J. 

Again place Rule with front lower corner at 42, and mark on bottom edge anotlicr 
15 inch space, then measure down from C at waist towards this last 15 mark, and mark 
at 42i on back edge of Rule, then from this and the mark at 42, draft bottom edge of 
this space from 42| to 42 on Diagram. 

The last space depends on the hip measure. Place upper right hand corner of 
Rule at 11 on waist line, back edge resting at the 20 inch hip mark. Then dot at 43 for 
length of back, then draft back line from the 11 through the hip dot down to 43. Then 
move Rule up, and from that dot finish drafting bottom edge from 43 to 42J on Dia- 
gram. 




Nine Gore Skirt 




Diagram No. 10 demonstrates how to draft a Nine Gore Skirt for the following 
measures: 

Size around waist . . 25 inches. 
Size around hips . 43i inches. 
Length in front . 39 inches. 
Length at back ... 41 inches. 

To draft this skirt follow the same general instructions given for the Seven Gore 
pages 6 to 11 inclusive. 

The only material difference between a seven and nine gore skirt, is in the number 
and width of the gores. 



riic Science of Skirt Draft iiifj. 




Diagram No. 10. 

Mark at 2 on waist line of Rule for width at top; make 3i inches 

FRONT GORE. wide- at hip, and 8i at bottom edge. As there is very little 

curve required the back edge of front gore should be drafted 

witii Slender Figure Pointer on Rule placed at waist line. For 

any other size see Revised Scale page 47. 

US 

Mark at 3i on waist line of Rule for width at top, make 4 inches 
FIRST SIDE GORE wide at hip, and 10 at bottom edge. In order to give entire 

front a pleasing effect, and to have front edge of this gore con- 
form with back'edge of front, use Slender Figure again when drafting front, but Medium 
when drafting back line of this gore. 



Mark at 3 J on waist line of Rule for width at top, make 4J inches 
SECOND SIDE GORE.wide at hip, and 11 at bottom edge. 

In drafting front line of tiiis gore place Pointer, indicating 
Medium Figure at waist line, to conform with back edge of first side. The back edge 
should also be drafted from the Medium as it comes over the hip, where most spring 
is required. 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 23 

Mark at 4 J on waist line of Rule for width at top, make 5^ inches 
THIRD SIDE GORE, wide at hip, and 14 at bottom edge. When drafting front line 

of this gore, place Medium Figure Pointer at waist line, as back 
edge of second side was drawn from Medium, but use Slender when drafting back edge 
very slight curvature is required between this and back gore. 



Mark at 3 on waist line of Rule for width at top, which makes 

BACK GORE. its actual width 2 inches (as top slide of. Rule is in) make 4 J 

inches wide at hip, and 23 at bottom edge. The front edge of 

this gore is drawn with Slender Pointer on waist line to coincide with back edge of third 

side gore. 

The back line is drafted with front edge of Rule (Top Slide out) straight down from 
figure 2 at waist to mark made at 23 for habit back, but if pleats or greater breadth of 
skirt is desired, then add for same beyond the 23 mark. 




Diagram No. 11 shows the drafting of an Eleven Gore Skirt for the following 
measures: 

Size around waist . 26 inches. 
Size around hips . . 44 inches. 
Length in front . 41 inches. 
Lenght at back ... 45 inches. 
In drafting this skirt proceed in a general way as instructed on the seven gore skirt 
as the only difference is in the number and width of gores. 



Mark at 1 on waist line of Rule for width at top, make 2 inches 
FRONT GORE. wide at hip and 5^ at bottom edge. Note that the back edge 
of front gore should be drafted from Slender Figure Pointer on 
Skirt Rule. For any other size see Revised Scale page 48. 

Mark at 3 on waist line of Rule for width at top, make 3| inches 
FIRST SIDE GORE, wide at hip, and 10 at bottom edge. Place Rule with Slender 
Pointer at waist line when drafting both front and back edges 
of this gore. 

Mark at 3 J on waist line of Rule for width at top; make 4 inches 

SECOND SIDE GORE wide at hip, and lOi at bottom edge. In drafting both front 

and back edges of this gore, place Slender Pointer at waist line. 



24 



The Science of Skirl Dmftiiit:. 




Diagram No. 11. 

Mark at 1 dii waisl line of l{iik' for width at lop; make 4J inclies 
THIRD SIDE GORE, wide at hip, and 1 1 J at liottom edge. Use Sh'nder Pointer when 

drafting front line of this gore, and medium when drafting back 
line as it comes over iiip. 

ft 

Nhirk at 4 on waist line of Rule for width at top; make 5 inches 
FOURTH wide at iiip, and 1.31 at bottom edge. Use Medium Pointer 

SIDE GORE wlien drafting front edge to conform with back edge of third 

side gore, but Slender Pointer for back edge. 



.Mark at 'J.}, on waist line of Uulc. wliiili makes gore IJ inches 
BACK GORE. wide at top; make 3', inches wide at iiip, and 2.:i at bottom edge. 
Use Slender Pointer when drafting front edge, in order to give it 
same curvature as back edge of fourth side gore. 

The back edge, which is a straight line can best be drafted with front edge of Rule 
(with Top Slide out) as described in back of nine gore skirl. 



■n 
nM 


Twelve, Thirteen, Fifteen, Sev- 
enteen, Nineteen Qore Skirts 


na 
■n 



To draft a twelve gore skirt, proceed in a general way as instructed on the eleven 
gore. There is no diagram of this skirt shown, as about the only difference between the 
two, is that the front of a twelve gore has a seam in the center, while the eleven is cut 
on fold of goods. When preparing to make this draft, take the width of the several 
gores from the revised scale of the eleven gore. As the front is divided by a seam its 
width might be increased a little to good advantage, and that amount deducted from 
the width of one or more of the side gores. The side and back gores are drafted pre- 
cisely as explained in the eleven gore skirt. 

For width to make each gore for thirteen gore skirt see Revised Scale page 50. 
For width to make each gore for fifteen gore skirt see Revised Scale page 51.' 
For width to make each gore for seventeen gore skirt see Revised Scale page 52. 
For width to make each gore for nineteen gore skirt see Revised Scale page 53. 



nn 
nn 


The New Perfection Shirt 
Waist System 


nn 
nn 



This System is absolutely faultless in every line and curve, and produces with- 
out changing, perfect fitting Sliirt Waists, Negligee, and Loose Fitting Wraps and 
llarments of every description. 

■ PERFECT LINES No garment shows good lines to better advantage than a 
ESSENTIAL. Loose Fitting Waist or Wrap, and it is utterly impossible to 

produce them with Patterns or an ordinary Dress System. 



This being the only Device ever designed exclusively for 
THE ONLY SHIRT this branch of Dress Making, it appeals to Dress Makers as 
WAIST SYSTEM the thing most needful. Aside from the waist proper it like- 
wise has an exceptionally fine Sleeve, Girdle, and Collar Rule 
for drafting those parts. 

An excellent Instruction Book accompanies each one, and as the manner of 
using is practically the same as our Perfection Tailor System, no oral instructions 
for those using that System will be necessary. 



TESTIMONIAL.— Centerfield, Utah, August 10, 1906. W. R. Williams & Son: I have tried your Shirt 
Waist System and found it perfect. Made a Shirt Waist for myself from a pattern drafted by it, without fitting, and 
it fitted me perfectly. That's what I call a reliable system. I shall be pleased to recommend it to all my friends. 
With many thanks, I remain. Yours truly, Hilda Soderberg. ■ 



Dartless Circular Flounce Skirt 



Till- folldwiii}^, iir diagram 12 sliows H'"""'ral niaiincr of draflinn plain circular 
floiiiKTS. If a ri|)i)lin},' cilVct is desired, then it will be necessary to raise draft at 
back edge, and give llounce more curve, as the greater curve a flounce has and the 
straightcr the line to which it is attached, the more fullness or rii)pling efTeet it presents. 

If a decided rippling cfTect is desired, however, the flounce should be drafted with 
a 12 or 14 inch sweep of tape line. 

These sweeps are easily made after the manner explained in drafting waist line for 
circular skirts witiiout darts, page 20. When drafting such a flounce, only a short 
section of it need be drafted by this sweep process, as that can be used as a pattern 
for cutting any amount of llounce material. 




Diagram No. 12. 



LOUNCE cutting is considered quite a difficult task, especially "Graduated 
Flounces." And therefore the following diagrams and instructions will 
be greatly appreciated by dress makers, who from time to time have had 



to worry over this perplexing problem. 



To cut a graduated Flounce, say 12 inches deep in front and 
HOW TO CUT A 25 at back, first, measure from bottom edge of skirt pattern 
GRADUATED for depth of flounce at both back and front, in this instance 12 
FLOUNCE and 25 inches respectively, then sketch oft' whatever style of 

flounce you may desire. Then place this sketch, or design, 
over another piece of paper, which should be sufficiently large to allow for both width 
and length of flounce for one half of skirt. Then with a tracing wheel trace line A 
shown on Fig. 1, up 12 inches to line B, which shows depth of flounce in front. Then 
trace line C down 25 inches to line D, or bottom of skirt. Then trace bottom edge, or 
line D to line A, which completes the tracing. Now remove this tracing from under- 
neath sketch, after which trim out same, keeping as close to traced lines as possible. 
This furnishes a plain graduated flounce of above dimensions, as shown by general 
outline of Fig. 2. See diagrams on pages 28 and 29. 

HI 

In order to provide for fullness for ripples, take J'oiu: shears 
TO GIVE RIPPLING and slash up this plain flounce, wherever you wish the 
EFFECT RIPPLES TO FALL, as shown by lines A, B, C, D, and E, in Fig 2, 

being careful, however to number each piece as it is cut (as 
shown by the figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6), so that you may know just where they be- 
long, and the order they come in when pinning them on the paper or goods, which- is 
to form tlie flounce proper. 

Next pin these pieces thus numbered on material making upper points meet 
exactly, (unless you wish to provide for pleats), in order to preserve shape at top of 
flounce. 

The bottom points, however, are separated, or spread apart, as shown in Fig. 3, 
JUST THE WIDTH YOU WISH THE RIPPLE. This Spreading apart process changes the 
shape of top line B quite a good deal and adds considerable to the sweep of the flounce 
at bottom edge, but when these lower points are brought back to place again, then 
line B on flounce will conform exactly to shape of line B on sketch, and the proper 
fullness will be added to the bottom of flounce. 



2S 



The Science of Skirl Drafting. 




The above diagram, and in fact most designs for the different style skirl 

This sketch measures about 5f inches, which when multiplied by eight :| 

scaling down process carefully, they will prove very helpful to you in locating j 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 



29 




I'own in the fashion books, are drawn on a |-inch scale. 
8 it to be 45 inches long in front. If you will study proportions, and this 
t liflferent points when sketching for flounce effects and other trimmings. 




SPECIAL DIAGRAMS 



Corpulent Figures, also Pleated, 
Princess, and Other Skirts. 




The Staiulanl Skirts which we liave endeavored to instruct liow to draft by the 
forcfjoing diagrams, really involve about all the fundamental principles of Skirt Cutting, 
hence the pupil wiio has been fairly observing and applied iierself studiously, ought to 
be able to readily draft any ordinary skirt. Therefore, in explaining the further use 
of the Rule, as applied to making these sepcial drafts, we shall notice and instruct only 
on their peculiar features, leaving all details to be supplied by tlie ojjcratur from pre- 
vious instructions received. 



Seven Gore Skirt for Stout Forms 



Diagram No. 1.'} demonstrates iiow a plain 7 gore skirt may be successfully drafted 
for stout or corpulent forms. Doubtless every dressmaker has iiad more or less trouble 
in drafting skirts of this character. That is to say, in cutting skirts for stout ladies 
which would fit and hang properly, and at the same time have no tendency to draw or 
wrinkle across the front, or fall largely in tiuit direction, instead of to the sides and back. 
Feel assured tiiat the suggestions here ofTered in the way of darts, placed in lining 
at top of front gore, and at back edges of side gores, together with the ciianges shown in 
the shape of waist line by adding the difference between the length of front and back of 
gores to the top instead of bottom edges, as indicated by Diagram, will be liighly siit- 
isfactory. 

Size around waist . 3(5 inches. 

Size around hips. . 57 inches. 

Length in front . 42 inches. 

Length at back . 40 inches. 



To draft front gore, first, draw '\\>\) Slide diit and mark at 'A!. 
FRONT GORE. according to Revised Scale page 47, on waist line of Rule for 

width at top. Then mark at 40 for length of front, then in 
Scale \o. 2 for ap])ro.\imate width and length at back edge, as pre\iousl.\ instructed. 

Next draft what is <alled a normal waist line(shi)wn by doited line in Diagram) 
from the :i\ inch mark on waist line to front edge; then from that line add 2 inches in 
length to front and 1 J to buck edge of gore, which makes it 42 inches long in front. 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 



31 



Tlie dot for point, from which hip measure is taken, should be placed SJ inches be- 
low dotted line, as the reversing of the order of waist line does not effect this measure 
in any way. Draft inside line from Pointer indicated on Scale. 

A dart J inch wide and about 3j inches long should be taken in lining at top. 




FIRST Mark at GJ 

SIDE GORE for width 

at top on waist line of Rule, 
and at 40| on front edge for 
length in front. Mark 
in perforation in Scale 
No. 3 (at 42 instead of 
41 to allow for dart) for 
approximate width 
and length of this 
gore. The darts 
shown in Dia- 
gram are pre- 
ferably plac- 
ed at back 
edge of 
both side 
gores, a- 
b u t 18 
in's. down 
from waist 
line. They 
are usually 
made a- 
bout 1 inch 
wide and 3 
to 3 1 in- 
ches long. 
Next draft 
the dotted 
waist line 
from the 6 J 
mark to 
front edge, 
then e x- 
tend draft 
up I2 in- 
ches at front, and 1 inch at back edge. Then with upper edge of Rule, draft permanent 
waist line, which completes the special features of this gore. Provide for hip'meas 
ure, and use such Pointer in drafting back edge as may be given in Scale on page 47. 



32 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 



First, draw Extension Curve from loop, and place in position 

SECOND SIDE on Roods or paper; then mark at 7^ on waist line for width of 

GORE gore at top, and at 41 for Icngtli of front edge. Ne.\t mark in 

perforation 41 J in Scale No. 3, for approximate length and 

width at back edge. 

There is another dart to be provided for at back edge of this gore, iience mark at 
41 J again, which makes tlie actual length of this gore but 40i inches. 

Next, draft dotted or normal waist line from tlic 7i mark to front edge; then with 
Rule extend line up one inch in front, and J inch at back edge, and draft permanent 
waist line. Place the Pointer indicated on Scale at waist line when drafting side lines. 

Mark at 3J on waist line of Rule for width at top, wiiicli makes 
BACK GORE. it just 2h inches, then at 40^ for lengtii in front, and at 40 for 

lengtii at back. Draft dotted waist line from tlie 2^ mark to 
front edge tiien from tiiat line add h incli to coincide with length of back edge of 
side gore; and from tiiat dot, draft new waist line to the 3i mark, wliich completes 
all the special features of this skirt. 




Dlacram No. 14. 



# Sheath Fitting Skirt With Flares 



# 



The foregoing Diagram, No. 14, shows a Seven Gore Sheath Fitting and Flaring 
Skirt for the following measures: 

Length in front, 40 inches. Length of back, 42 inches. 

Size around waist, 23 inches. Size around hips, 41 J inches. 

The dotted lines in this Diagram indicate an ordinary skirt, and the full lines show 
a slight sheath fitting and flaring effect. The figures at top and bottom of each gore 
show their respective width and length. The short dotted line extending down from 
waist line to the right of figure 2, shows point where close fitting back is drafted from, 
while the amount beyond that line, provides for pleats or other fullness. 

NOTE — Whenever sheath fitting and fiaring effect ^.s desired, bacli line of front, both sides of side gores and 
front Une of back section should be -lightly curved in and p'aced as shown in Diagram No. 14. 




Diagram No. 15. 



34 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 



These flounces have always been considered very difficult to 

GRADUATED cut and are, unless a person has been let into the secret, so 

FLOUNCES to speak, then any width or style may be drafted with perfect 

ease. We have special diagrams and instructions on pages 

27,'28 and 29 of this book devoted entirely to the designing and cutting of these flounces 

which would advise all who expect to become proficient in all branches of Skirt Cutting 

to study carefully. 



nnn 
nnn 




nnn 
nnn 


PLEATED SKIRT 





The foregoing Diagram, No 15, shows a Pleated Skirt for an ordinary size waist: 
42 inch length in front and 44 at back. To cut such skirt successfully, first carefully 
pleat the material in any style desired, then make up the skirt in circular form, or 
over a five or seven gore foundation. 




Diagram No. 16. 






YOKE SKIRT 




Diagram 16, or the foregoing Jlustration, shows a round length Yoke Skirt with 
circular flounce, for 23 inch waist measure, and 36 inch length. 

This skirt is suitable for a Miss, or makes a nice golf skirt or short length for 
an older lady. The general manner of di'afting this skirt is the same as other gore 
skirts, except yokes, which can be shaped as shown, or given any other shape desired. 
The yoke may be traced or cut off from top of gore, and that part used as a pattei-n to 
be attached to upper]^part of gore proper, or can be drafted separate if desired. The 
distance from the waist line to A is 7i inches; from waistline to B is 7 inches; from 
waist line to C is also 7 inches; from wasit line to D is 8 inches; from there 
to E is 8, and on tlie dotted line at back is 8| inches. Tlie depth of flounce from 
dotted line H to bottom of sku-t is 6 inches. 



FIVE GORE SKIRT 



Diagram No. 17 shows a five gore skirt in short sweep length for a 21 inch waist 
measure, 40 inches length in front and 46 inches at back. 

The front gore may be drafted in the usual manner on fold of goods, or with a 
seam in the center, which would change it into a six gore skirt. Lines A, B, C and D 
are drafted in the manner described on pages 11 and 12, with the respective edges of 
Skirt Rule. Dotted line F shows the ordinary way of drafting "habit back", while 
line E indicates shape to give back line when extra width of skirt is desired. The 
figures 82, 31 and Z2, show width of front, side, and back gores at bottom edge, while 
the 12 shows what is added beyond the usual width. 



Vd PA 



SEVEN GORE PRINCESS 



Diagrarh No. 18 illustrates quite a popular style of Princess^Skirt, wliich for conven- 
ience we show in a circular form, but when actuaUy making the draft, would advise 
that each gore be drafted separately as when cutting any seven gore skirt, as then the 
seams can easUy be allowed, and the rule for placing a bias to a straight side seam can 
readily be observed. 



30 



Jhe Science of Skirt Draft iiif^. 



The sizes here used are as follows: .1'} inch corsat,'!- (which should l>c taken ahoiil 




2J inches below bust), 23 waist measure, .39 length in front, 40?, length over hip and 
41 in back. 

The figures at waist line of tlie several gores, give the exact widlit'of each for a 



The Science of Skirt Drafting;. 



37 



23 inch waist measure, while those at the bottom of skirt indicate tlieir widths there, 
which may be varied at pleasure. 

The section above waist line, or corsage part, is extended up about 5 inches at 
front and back, and front gore made about 4 inches wide, first side 42, second side 
5|, back 2J inches for this size of waist. The general shape and curve at top may like- 
wise be varied according to taste. 



-^VM 






V 



"='«f^ 



'%, 



UV= 



Diagram No. 18. 



The sections above waist line are drawn with hip curves, on one side of Skirt Rule, 
in the same manner as the curves over hips are drawn. 

The distance from waist line down to A, B and C is about 5| or 6 inches. 

If you wish to allow for pleat in back, draft as indicated by dotted line E, if not use 
line D. Front gore may be drafted on fold of goods or with seam. 



#8# 



EIGHT GORE SKIRT 



•:• 



Diagram No 19 shows a very handsome and easily drafted Princess Skirl of ordi- 
nary dip (or sweep' length) for 31 inch corsage, 23 
waist measure, 38 length in front, 39i length over hip, 
and 43 length at back. The front gore of tiiis 
Skirt is cut with seam in center of front, and 
slightly flaring]onboth frontand back edges. 
Some of the lines in this diagram show a 
slight sheath fitting .^effect, but it 
was_ not sointended! Line B of 




first side gore is drawn straight and line C with a 2J inch flare. Line D of second side 
gore is likewise a straight line, and line E has 3J inches flare. Line F is also a straight 
line, but line G, in center of back may be drawn straight or slightly curving with a 
little flaring eflfect as shown in cut. The corsage, or portion above the waist line is 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 



89 



drafted after the manner described in diagiam 18, the principal difference being in the 
height and shape of front gore above waist line. Allow goods for pleat as indicated by 
line G or cut without as shown by dotted line between F and G. 





m in m m 




■!■ 




■■■ 


BICYCLE SKIRT 





Figure 20 shows a Bicycle Skirt for an ordinary size waist. The front and side|] gores 
of this skirt are drafted in the usual way. 

The back section is drafted by first drawing out Extension Curve, and marking on 
waist line at about 14, for slender or medium figure, then at 3Z on front edgej^of 
Rule for length of front side of this gore; then at 32 on back edge for length at back, 
then draft the first Z2 inches of bottom edge, then measure and draft 11 inches more 




with bottom edge 
of Rule, to com- 
plete the 33 inches of width at 
bottom edge. Next measure 32 
DiagramiNo. 20. ' inches across the Center of back, 

gore.and make a dot then with bottom edge of Skirt Rule (inverted) draft the 20 
inch part of back line from upper right hand corner of waist line, then in the same way 
draft the 17 inch line, down to 32 at lower right hand corner. This pointed shape 
given back section when gathered at waist, and back line is drawn forward with tapes 
which gives it the appearance of a divided skirt. 



Five Gore Skirt W ith Narrow Side Gore 



rX- 



DiaK'niiii 'I\ slmw.s such a skirl I'nr 2') iiicli waist iiicasiirc, which can Iw fitted with 
out (hirts. 

Draft front gore as usual, making it 2J inches wide at waist, 
FRONT GORE. and inclics at lower <'dKe from A to 15. The dare from \i to 

(" is 1 inches. 



Draft side gore in the ordinary way, allow no dare on the front 
SIDE GORE. edge, but a five inch flare on the hark edge C. to H. Mark at 

7 on waist line of Skirt Kule for side gore, which will make it six 
inches wide at top. The dotted line I to D shows normal waist line, and as no dart is 
used (which always raises the outer edge) we find it necessary to raise it from D to J J 
of an inch. If the hips are quite prominent, add h inch e.xtra for spring at point E, 




DUgram No. 21 . 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 



41 



which is six inches down from D. Dotted line from D to E shows normal draft, with 
Pointer indicating greatest curve or stout figiu'e (on Rule) placed on waist line. The 
width of this gore from F to G is 16 inches. 



The front line of the back gore is drafted in the usual way, one- 
BACK GORE. half inch of extra spring (at bottom of dotted line, point E) be- 
ing allowed for large hips, same as in side gore. 
The first part of back section from K to arrow at top, and from near H to arrow 
on bottom line, is the remainder of side gore, and is made 2 to 18 inches wide respect- 
ively. 

The Figure 2, between arrow and short dotted line, under L, shows amount left for 
back space or fullness, and the remaining four inches of back width at top from L to M 
(which is slightly raised in center) provides for inverted pleat, or other mode of back 
finish. The width of back gore proper at bottom, from arrow to N is 24 inches, which 
makes the entire back section from near H to N, 42 inches wide, and length of back 
from M to N, 46 inches, all of which can easily be changed as fancy or style may sug- 
gest. 

Some dress makers and ladies tailors prefer the front gores nar- 
TO^MAKE ^GORES rower, at both waist and foot, and to have the side gores all the 
NARROWER. same width, likewise the styles change from one width to an- 

other. 

These changes can easily be made by deducting § inch or more from the front, and 
adding that amount to the width of the narrower side gore. 

For example; the width as given in Revised Scale for seven gore skirts page 47, for 
20 inch waist measure, is front li, first side 4 J, second side 4f inches. 

By taking | inch from front, and adding it to first side it would make both side 
gores appear 4f inches wide on draft, which would make them 3f inches net. 

The J inch added to side gore at waist should also be added to it at hip, and the 
same amount deducted from front gore at hip. 

Whatever is taken from the front gores at foot may be added to the width of sides 
and back gores, if you desire the same breadth of skirt. All sizes and styles of skirts 
can be treated in a like or similar manner as fancy or style may siiggest. 



ngn 




□On 


SKIRTS WITH TRAINS 







In cutting skirts with trains, greater length, and width must be provided. The 
train portion of a skirt usually starts from the back edge of the first side gore,in a 7 gore 
skirt,or from a point on the lower edge of the skirt, almost directly below the hip, and 
from there the train should gradually lengthen towards the center of back. 



42 



The Science of Skirt Dniftiiifi. 



Tlu" sliapc of a train is varied according to taste and fasliion. hut 
SHAPE TO usually has about the same general shajn- as i)(jttoni of skirt, 

GIVE TRAIN. though they are often rut square.being slightly rounded at the 
corners. 

Trains vary in length from a few inches to a yard or more, the 
LENGTH OF TRAIN, average length being from (i to 1« indies. The longer the train, 
however, the more fullness should be given to the last side and 
badi gores. 



It is said that Kings regulate the lengtli of the trains to be worn at Court Funct- 
ions; that of a Duchess must be three yards long; a marchioness, two and one half; that 
of a countess, two, a Viscountess, one and one-half, and a Haroness, one \ard. 



FULL SKIRTS 



Many ways of cutting these skirts might be suggested, but the easiest and most sat- 
isfactory that iias been brouglit to our notice, is to provide a narrow front gore and two 
or three wider side sections. 



FRONT GORE. For a medium figure the front gore should be made about 4^ 
inches wide at waist, and 9i at bottom edge. 



FIRST SIDE. This section should be made about 15 inches wide at waist, and 

36 at lower edge. 



The second or last section of this skirt should be made 19 or 20 
SECOND SIDE. inches wide at waist, and 45 at bottom edge. If a skirt some- 
thing after the fashion of a seven gore is desired, then the front 
gore may be made 4 at top, and 9^ at lower edge. The first side, 9 inches at waist, 
18 at lower edge. The second side, 1 1 inches at waist, and 25 at lower edge. The back 
section may be made about 19 inches at waist, and 3(i at bottom edge. Such skirts 
may be pleated or gathered, according to style or fancy. 

All skirls, whctlier full or close fitting must be drafted with becoming lines, hen< . 
the importance of having a reliable Sytseni. 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 



43 



In conclusion would beg to advise those who learn the INFAL- 

PRACTICE MAKES LIBLE SKIRT CUTTING DEVICE to spend at least several 

PERFECT. days in practice work, immediately after taking instructions.as 

the principles and details of using the system will then be fresh in the mind, hence more 

easily applied. 



^•^ *»■» **•» ^*» 



## 
## 


The New Century Ladies' Tailor 
Jacket and Coat Method 


## 
## 



The Instruction Book (which forms a part of this method) con- 
INSTRUCTION BOOK tains thirty diagrams and explanations illustrating how to pro- 
duce the peculiar lines and curves which so plainly distinguish 
the "Tailor-Made Garment" from the ready-made, or those cut by patterns, or Dress 
Cutting Systems. It likewise teaches and demonstrates the most approved process 
of sponging, pressing, making and much other valuable information on Ladies 'Tailor- 
ing, which hertofore could only be obtained in Large 
Cities at a cost (over and above expenses) of from fifty 
to one hundred dollars. The accompanying diagrams 
'show a sample of those used in this Instruction Book. 
Diagram 23 shows proper manner of drafting collar, 
which is an important item when cutting that part. 
Diagram 22, shows the manner of arranging canvass, 
and hair cloth in order to produce the best effect. The 
instructions whicli follow it explain fully how to pad, 
baste, and press garment into perfect shape. 



Diagram No. 22. 





D 

Diagram No. 23 



TESTIMONIALS. 

W. R. Williams & Son: Humphrey, Nebr., Jan 30th, 1903. 

I am very much pleased with the Jacket and Coat System, as it is just the thing 
for cutting ladies ' tailor made suits. Miss Lizzie Weber. 

W. R. WiLLi.\MS: Butte, Mont., Nov. 28, 1902. 

Have had your Jacket and Coat System about one year, and I think it the finest 
thing it has ever been my good fortune to see. I like Ladies' Tailoring, but it was very 
difhcult to get just the right cut, but with your Jacket System I never have any trouble. 

Josephine Keating, No. 50 West Granite Street . 



Additional tlnstructions 

Including new Revised Scales for 
Gored Skirls, Rints on Designing 



-etc., etc 



Flared Circular Skirt with Triple Darts 



Diagram No. 24 shows a Circular Skirt for 24 inch waist measure, 42 hip, 40 length 
in front and 48 at back, having three darts instead of two, which is sometimes consid- 
ered more desu-able. When drafting this skirt locate center dart, not less than two 
inches wide, directly over the hip. Place front dart, which is one inch wide, in center 
between A and middle dart, and back dart one and one half inches wide midway be- 
tween middle dart and B. The dotted line extending from front dart to D indicates 
the curvature of waist line after the darts have been taken up. In crafting this skirt, 
mark 16.\ on Ivxtension Curve of Skirt Uule, then add 4 inches, for pleats or fullness. 
From B to C is four inches, which is the amount here allowed for inverted pleat at waist 
line, but double that amount should be allowed at bottom edge. The full line indicates 
center where pleat is folded, which is raised J of an inch to provide sufficient length 
when folded under. How to draft this skirt : First mark opposite 40 on Skirt Rule 
for front length, then at 4U at back edge of first widtii (under E) ; then at 44^ for second 
width (tmder F); then at 48 at back. The Slashes or wedge-shaped gores E and F 
when spread apart, as here shown, produce a pleasing, ilaring effect. If greater breadth 
of skirt is desired, add by increasing width at back of draft. 



BACK SPACE 
DEFINED 



By "Back Space or Fullness" is meant, the distance on the 
waist line between tiie back side scam and center of back, then 
whatever is necessary for pleats is added beyond this space. We 
have foimd in practice the following a good rule, namely: to add double the amount 
allowed for back space for a single inverted pleat, and four times that amount for double, 
for example: if the back space given in Scale is 2 inches, add beyond the two inch 
point, (center of back) 4 inches. 



NEW SCALES FOR 

WAIST, HIP, AND 

LOWER EDGE 



These new Scales which you will fmd printed onother pages will 
be especially helpful as they give the exact figure at which to 
mark for width of each gore at waist, at hip and at bottom edge. 
These for convenience are grouped together for each size. The 
letters M, S, and SI to right of figure on scale indicate the curve 



to be used when drafting, M indicating Medium, S Stout and SI Slender. 



The Science of Skirt Draftii^. 



45 



You will observe that three pointers are provided on each side 

PROPER CURVE of Skirt Rule, designated as Stout, Medium and Slender figure, 

OVER HIPS which are to be used according to the form you are drafting for. 

We find by actual test that some figures that appear stout re- 
quire less spring or curve, than many which look more slender, as a great deal depends 
upon the prominency of the hips, also that some of the seams need more curve than 
others, for example: the hip curve for front gore, and the front edge of first side gore 
(for sizes 24 to 30 inclusive, when drafting seven gore skirt) should be given the Medium 
curve, as indicated by the letter M opposite hip Scale, likewise that the back edge of the 
first side gore, and front edge of second side, should be drafted by placing pointer in- 
dicating stout figm-e, or greatest curve, at the waist line shown by S opposite hip meas- 
iire oji Scale. The curve for back edge of second side gore, and front edge of back for 
all sizes up to 36, should be given the Medium ciurve as shown by M on Scale. For 
very slender figures use pointer indicating Slender figure as shown by SI on Scale, for 
front gore, and front of first side, then for back edge of first side and front of second side 
gore use Medium pointer. For convenience the letters SI, M or S have been placed to 
the right of the hip measiire figures in the different scales wihch indicate the exact 
curve to give each gore. 




Diagram Ko. 24. 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 



New Revised Scale Giving Exact Figures at Which to 

Mark Gores at Top, Hip, and Bottom Edge, When Drafting 
Five Gore Skirts. 



Fi ret tier of fixures below 
Bhow Willi h ..t gure al 
wtiiHt, secoiitl ut hip, (bird 
al bottom edge t 






■ « e s 



OS'S" 



Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge. 



.20 
.36 
.3 yds, 13 in 



li 

2iSl 

8 



91 

12 M 
30 



t i inches 

3 

22 " 



Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge. 



22 
.38 
.3 yds, 15 in 



2 
31S 

8i 



9i 

12iM 
30i 



1} 
34 
23 



Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge. 



.24 

AM 

.3 yds, 16 in 



2 

3iM 

9 



m 

13iM 
31 



2 

4 
22 



Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge. 



.26 

.43* 
.3vds, 19 in 



2* 

4'.M 

9\ 



U 

J31 -M 
32 



Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge . 



.28 
.46 

. 3 yds, 23 in 



2* 

4 M 
9i 



Hi 

I4iM 

32 



2i 
4i 
24 



For 30, 32 and 34 Waist Measure use two darts; first l\ inches wide and second 1} inches. 



Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge. 



.30 
.49 
.3 yds, 28 in 



Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge . 



.32 

.521 

.3 yds, 28 in 



3 

4'. .M 
10 

3 

4iS 

10 



13* 
15 .\1 
34 



I4i 

I6iM 

34 



2i 
5 
24 



Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge. 



.34 
.55 
. 3 yds, 33 in 



3 

5 S 
lOiS 



i5i 

I7iM 

36 



For 36, 38 and 40 W'aist Measure use two darts; first 1 i inches wide, second 2 inches. 



Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge. 



.36 
.57 
.3 yds, 33 in 



3i 

5 S 
lOi 



16* 
18* S 
36 



21 
5 
24 



Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge . 



.38 
.61 
.4 yds, 6 in. 



31 
51 S 
It 



17 

19 S 
38 



3 
6 
26 



Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge. 



.40 
.63 

.4 vd.s, 6 in 



4 

5JS 

tl 



17* 
I9i S 
38 



N. B. — The figures given above at which to mark for width of front gore (also 
back space) and those indicating size of hips and width at bottom of gore, represent 
their actual widtii at top, hip and bottom edge, as Front Slide is then drawn out, or a 
mark is made through a certain perforation, but the actual width of side gores at top 
is one inch less than the figures indicate, as one inch lias been taken ofi' for curve by 
moving I'^ront Slide back to place. Am confident this arrangement will be greatly 
appreciated by skirt cutters, as it gives the e.-icact width of each gore for every figure, 
hence docs away with all calculating, proportioning or refitting. 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. ■ 47 

New Revised Scale Giving Exact Figures at Which to 

Mark Gores at Top, Hip, and Bottom Edge When Drafting 
Seven Gore Skirts. 



First tier of figures below show 
width of gore at waist, second 
at hip, third at bottom edge. i6@°° 


Mark Front 
Gore at 


Mark First 
Side Gore at 


Mark Second 
Side Gore at 


Leave for 4 .of 
back Space 
or Fullness 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge 


.20 
.36 
.3 1-3 yds 


2^ SI 
8 


4} 

5|S 

14 


4J 
16 


U inches 
3 " 
22 " 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge 


.22 
.38 

.3 yds, 15 in 


2 

3 SI 
8i 


4J, 

6'S 

I4i 


41 

6i M 
164 


1| ■■ 
34 ■• 
22 ■ ' 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge 


.24 

AH 

.3 yds, 16 in 


. 2 
3JM 
9 


44 

6iS 

144 


54 

7 M 
J64 


2 ' ' 
4 ■' 
22 " 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge 


.26 

.43i 

.3 yds, 19 in 


2i 
4"M 


5i 

6JS 

15 


5i 

7iM . 
17 


2 " 
4 " 
22 ■' 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge 


.28 
.46 
. 3 yds, 23 in 


24 
4 M 


54 

7iS 

15 


51 

7iM 

17 


2i ■' 
44 " 
24 " 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge 


.30 
.49 

.3 yds, 28 in 


3 

41 M 
10 


5! 
7iS 
. 16 


51 

71 M 
18 


24 •• 
5' •• 
24 ■• 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge 


.32 

.52i 

.3 yds, 28 in 


3 

5 S 
JO 


5! 
71 S 
16 


61 

84 M 
18 


24 ■' 
5 " 
24 •' 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge 


.34 
.55 
.3 yds, 33 in . 


3 

4iS 
10* 


6f 

8iS 

17 


6| 

9 M 
19 


24 " 
5 " 
24 •• 


Size at waist 


.36 

.57 

.3 yds, 33 in 


3J 
5 S 
lOi 


64 
81 S 

17 


74 

n s 

19 


24 •• 
5' " 
24 " 






Size at waist 

Size of hip 

Width lower edge 


.38 

.61 

.4 yds, 6 in 


3h 

. 5iS 

II 


7 

91 S 
18 


7i 

10 S 
20 


3 •• 

6 

26 •■ 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge 


.40 

.63 

.4 yds, 6 in 


. 4 
5f S 
II 


7 

915 

18 


8 

104 S 
20 


3 " 
6 " 
26 ■' 



VT OTTNn?<? ATin '^° ^°°^ ^^^^ ^^^ flounces on skirts should graduate towards 

TIT AT>inc« the back, so that they will be quite a good deal wider there 

than in iront. 

Flares, unless it is desirable to make the skirt quite close fitting at knee, should 

be started at a point about 20 or 22 inches below the waist line, and gradually increased 

towards bottom of skirt. For an ordinary 7 gore skirt, make flare at lower edge of 

front gore from 2 to 4^ inches wide. Fh-st side gore from 2| to 5J inches, and second 

side from 3^ to 7 inches. \^'hen drafting such flares measure out the desired number of 

inches from lower right hand corner of gore, then make a dot at 20 or 22 on back edge 

of Skirt Rule, then move Rule up until upper end of Flare Slide coincides with this dot, 

when after Flare Slide is drawn out, line may be drafted with it from the 20 mark, to 

the mark indicating width of flare at lower edge. 



48 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 



New Revised Scale Giving Exact Figures at Which to 

Mark Gores at Top, Hip, and Bottom Edge, When Drafting 
Nine Gore Skirts. 

L IJIKT row ol ligurcs sliow 

widt h of gore at wuist.soc- Leave for J 

Olid at hip, thiid at bot- Mark Front Mark First Mark 2nd Mark 3rd of back space 

torn edge flisfif' Gore at Side gore at Side Gore at Side Gore at or fullness 

Size at waist 20 I 3 3i 4 I i inch. 

Sizeathip 36 2 SI 3J SI 41 M 5 31 3J " 

Width lower edge 3yds, 12in 7 8 10 13 22" 

Sizeatwaist 22 I* 3i 3i 4 JJ " 

Sizeathip 38 24 SI 31 SI 4t M 5J SI 3i " 

Width lower edge 3yds,22in 8 10 II J4 22" 

Sizeal waist 24 JJ 31 3i * 4i 2 " 

Sizeathip 4U 3 SI 3* SI 4\M 5} SI 4J " 

Width lower edge 3yds,23iii 8* JO JJ J4 22" 

Sizeatwaist 26 2 3* 3} 4} 2 " 

Sizeathip 43i 3 SI 4M 4i M 51 SI 4i " 

Width lower edge 3yds,26in 8J JO JJ 14 23" 

Size at waist 28 2J 3} 41 5 2\ " 

Sizeatliip 46 3* M 4i M 5M 6 SI 4J " 

Width lower edge 3 yds, 27 in 9 JOi J J J4 23" 

Size at waist 30 2» 3J 4i 5} 2\ " 

Sizeathip 49 4M 4* M 5* M 6J M 4i " 

Width lower edge 3yds,33in 9>, Jj" J2 J4i 23* " 

Sizeatwaist 32 2j 3J 4} 5* 21" 

Sizeatliip 52* 4i M 4J M 5} M ' 63 M 4i " 

Width lower edge 3 yds, 35 in 10 J J* J3 15 24" 

Sizeatwaist... 34 3 4 4J 5} 2i " 

Sizeathip 55 4} M 5 M 6 M 71 M 5 " 

Width lower edge 4 yds, 8 in 10 12 13i 15* 25 " 

Sizeatwaist 36 31 41 51 5} 2}" 

Size at liip 57 4i M 51 M 6* M 71 M 5 " 

Width lower edge 4yds,J4in JO J2* J4* J6 26" 

Size at waist 38 4 4i 51 5} 2* " 

Sizeathip 61 5} M 5* M 7S 71 M 51" 

Width lower edge 4yds,I7in JO* J2i J5 16* 27" 

Sizeatwaist 40 4 4,' 5* 6 23 " 

Sizeathip 63 5! M 5i M 71 S 8M 51" 

Width lower edge 4yd.s,2Jiii lOJ 13 15 17 28" 

The width of the several gores in these Scales are considered 
EXPLANATION OF Standard, but can easily be changed if desired by reducing 
SCALE one, and adding that amount to the other. If greater width at 

the bottom edge is desirable, above what may be added in the 
way of flares, it better be added to the last side and back gores, for if the width of 
front, and center side gores are increased, the skirt may have a tendency to fall for- 
ward. 

For explanation of the letters SI., M. and S. to the right of the hip measure figures 
seepage 18. 

Please remember that only one half the width of front and back gores is given, 
and are just as they appear, wiiile tiie actual width of each side gore at waist line is 
one inch less, as that amount is taken off in curves. 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 49 



New Revised Scale Giving Exact Figures at Which to 

Mark Gores at Top, Hip, and Bottom Edge, When Drafting 
Eleven Gore Skirts. 



Upper row of figures show 

width of gore at waist, sec- Leave for i 
ond at hip, tkird at bottom Mark Front Mark First Mark 2nd Mark 3rd Mark 4th of back space 
edge. £•" Gore at Side Gore at Side Gore at Side Gore at Side Gore at or Fullness 


Size at waist 20 | 2i 2A 3} 3| H inches 

Size at hip 36 I J. SI 2i- SI 21 SI 3i M 4i Si 3 ' ' 

Width lower edge 3 yds, 26 in 4A 9 9i 10 12 22 " 


Size at waist 22 f 2* 3 3i 3| li 

Sizeathip 38 USI 3" SI 3i SI 4 M 4i SI 3" ' 

Width lower edge 3yds, 29in 4 9i 10 lOi )2i 22 




Size at waist 24 I 2i 3i 3J 4 IJ ' 

Sizeathip 4Ii If SI 3 SI 3| SI 4i M 5 SI 3 ' 

Width lower edge 3yds,34in 5 9i JO 11 J3 22J ' 




Sizeatwaist 26 I 3 3i 3i 4i H ' 

Sizeathip 43i IJSI 3i SI 4' SI 4^ M 5i SI 3 ' 

Width lower edge 4yds, linch 5* 9A lOJ Ili 13 22i ' 




Sizeatwaist 28 li 3} 3i 4 4i U ' 

Sizeathip 46 2 SI 3J SI 4i SI 4i M 5; SI 3+ ' 

Width lower edge 4yds,4in 5i 10 lOi lU I3i 23 ' 




Sizeatwaist 30 U 3* 3i 4i 4i JJ * 

Sizeathip 49 2i SI 3| SI 4J SI 5M 5* SI 3J ' 

Width lower edge 4yds,8in 61 10 H 12 I3i 23 ' 




Sizeat waist 32 If 3i 3f 4i 4} If ' 

Sizeathip 52i 2| SI 4"SI 4* M 5i M 5J SI 3i ' 

Width lower edge 4yds. 11 in 6i lOi II 12 14 23i ' 




Sizeat %Aaist 34 1} 3i 4 4f 5 IJ ' 

Sizeathip 55 2| SI 4i SI 4J M 5J M 6 SI 4 ' 

Width lower edge 4yds, 14in 7 JO^ Hi I2i 14 23i ' 




Sizeatwaist 36 2 4 4i 4} 5 2 ' 

Sizeatliip 57 3 SI 4i SI 5M 5| M 6 SI 4i ' 

Width lower edge 4yds, I7in 7 if Jli I2i I4i 24 ' 




Size at waist 38 2 4^ 4i 5 5i 2 ' 

Sizeathip..: 61 3 SI 5M Si M 6i M 6i SI 4i ' 

Width lower edge 4 yds, 23 in 7i IIJ 12 13 14i 25 ' 




Sizeatwaist 40 2i 4i 4| 5 5i 2i ' 

Sizeathip 63 31 SI 5 M 5J M 6} S 61 SI 4i ' 

Width lower edge 4vds,27in 8 lU 12 13 15 26 


< 



To obtain the best results when using these Scales, and to 
BE SYSTEMATICAL avoid confusion arising from seeing so many figures together, 
AND ACCURATE write the figures found in Scale opposite desired measures, 
on a separate slip of paper before beginning the draft. 
Mark opposite given waist measure on waist line. The hip measure, however may 
not be found in the same gi'oup; for example you may have a 20 inch waist measure 
and 38 hip, hence it will be necessary to mark the gores at waist according to the fig- 
ures in the 20 inch group, but at hip and bottom edge in the 2,Z inch group. 

In order to avoid all possibility of mistakes or duplicates, w.e have issued a Skirt 
Measure book, neatly bound containing 50 pages, conveniently subdivided and spaced 
ready for use. 

Regular price of these boolffi 25 cts., but we charge only 15c each when sent with 
order for one or more Infallible Skirt Rules. 



50 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 



New Revised Scale Giving Exact Figures at V\ hich to 

Mark Gores at Top, Hip, and Bottom Edge, When Drafting 
Thirteen Gore Skirts. 



Upper row of fiKures show 
width of gore at waist, sec- 
ond at hip, third at bottom 
edge 158^ 


3| 


''■a 

Is- 

£ 


f 


s 




S-S- 
3 


Hi 


Size at waist 

^izeat hip 

Width lower edge. . 


...24 
...42 
. . . .4 yds, Sin 


i 

1 1 SI 
4* 


2* 

2iSl 

9 


2\ 

3} SI 
9i 


31 

31 .\1 
10 


3i 

3ASI 

10* 


31 

4 SI 
11 


1 4 inches 
3' •■ 
20 " 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge.. 


...26 

...43J 

. . .4 yds, 11 m 


liSl 

3 


2J 

2^ SI 
9J 


3 

3iSI 

10 


3 

3iM 

lOi 


3i 

33 SI 
104 


I's. 
Ill 


11 " 
3 " 
20 " 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge. . 


...28 
...46 
. . .4 yds, 13 in 


I 

I}S1 
5i 


2* 

3 SI 
94 


3 

31 SI 
10 


I'm 

lOJ 


I's. 

lOi 


I's, 

101 


3 " 
21 " 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge.. 


...30 
...49 

4 yds, 20 in 


I 
USl 

5i 


2} 

3 SI 
9* 


3 

3iSl 
104 


3J 

4iM 

lOi 


4 

4iSI 
114 


41 

41 SI 
121 


i' •■■' 

21 " 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge. . 


...32 

...524 

...4 yds, 23 in 


( 

2 SI 
6\ 


23 

3iSI 

9 


3 

33 SI 
lOJ 


3/ 
4* M 


4 

4iSI 

12 


4 

5 s; 

12J 


14 ■• 
3 " 
21 '• 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge.. 


...34 
...55 
. ..4yds, 25 in 


H 

2} SI 
6i 


3 

3} SI 
10 


3i 
4 M 
lOi 


3i 

4iM 

11 


4 

4iSl 

12 


41 

51 SI 
12 


13 " 
3 " 
21 " 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge. . 


.36 

...57 

... 4 yds, 25 in 


2iSI 
6i 


3i 
3iSI 

to 


3J 

4iM 

10 


3i 

44 M 
12 


4 

5iSI 

12 


4i 

51 SI 
12 


J!" 

22 " 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge. . 


...38 
...61 
. . .4 yds 28 in 


n 
2isi 

7 


3* 

4} SI 
10 


3} 

4}M 

11 


4i 

5}M 

12 


4J 

54 SI 
12 


41 

51 SI 
12 


2 " 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge.. 


...40 
...63 

. . .4vds, 30in 


2! SI 
7\ 


3} 

3iSI 

10 


4 

4; M 
12 


4! 

5i M 
12 


44 

54 51 
124 


43 

54 SI 
124 


2 " 
4 " 
22 '• 



DO NOT SHOW ANY PART 

OF FLOUNCE CUTTING 

WHEN SOLICITING 



Would advise all those soliciting for the Infallible 
SUirt Hule, not to show any part of our manner of 
llouncc cutting or any other special features of the 
work, to any one until they hayk taken tiik skirt 
HULK, with full oral instructions and I'aid for same. 
This is all very valuable information and easily picked up, but the fact tiiat we teach 
ALL those things by the very latest and most approved process should not onl>- 
be MENTIONED, but EMPHASIZED witii all POSSIBLE FORCE, as tills is an important 
adjimct to skirt cutting, and something that nine out of ten dressmakers will be ex- 
ceedingly glad to learn. However, don't fail to impress upon their minds ti\at it is a 
SECRET PROCESS, whicli they ought to know and retain for themselves, in order that 
they may stand at the head of their profession 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 



51 



New Revised Scale Giving Exact Figures at Which to 

Mark Gores at Top, Hip, and Bottom Edge, When Drafting 
Fifteen Gore Skirts. 



Upper row of figures Q^ 

show width of gore at o o 

waist, second at hip, " g. 






third at bottom edge t^~ 


g.'* 


S 


a 


& 


g. 


p 


p 


s"a 


Size at waist 24 

Size at hip 42 

Width lower edge. .4 yds, 22 in 


a 

h SI 

4 


2i 

25 SI 
9 


2i 

2iSI 

9 


2i 
3 M 

m 


21 

3 SI 
104 


3 

3iSI 
II 


3 

35 SI 
II 


1 inches 
24 " 
18 " 


Size at waist 26 

Size at hip 42 

Width lower edge. .4 yds, 30 in 


USI 
4i 


2i 

2iSI 

9 


2i 

2iSI 

9 


2i 

3 M 
. JOi 


3 

3} SI 
II 


3i 
.34 SI 


34 

3|SI 

12 


I ■' 
24 " 
18 " 


Size at waist 28 

Size at hip 46 

Width lower edge. .4 yds, 28 in 


a 

Usi 

^ 


2} 

2iSl 

9 


2i 

2JSI 

ID 


21 
3i M 

m 


3i 

3JM 

II 


34 

3|SI 

114 


34 

3f SI 
114 


14 " 
21 ■' 
18 •• 


Size at waist 30 

Size at Hip 49 

Width lower edge 4 yds , 30 in 


I 

USl 

4A 


2i 

2* SI 
9 


2J 

3 SI 
10 


2| 

3i M 
lOi 


2i 

3|M 
II 


31 
4 SI 
12 


3i 

4 SI 
12 


14 " 
24 " 
18 " 


Sizeat wai.st 32 

Size at hip 52i 

Width lower edge .4 yds, 32 in 


I 

USI 

4i 


2i 

2iSI 

9 


21 

3iSI 

10 


3 

3iM 

m 


34 

31 M 
II 


3i 

4iSI 
12 


4 

4{SI 

12 


14 " 
2J " 
19 " 


Size at waist 34 

Size at hip 55 

Width lower edge . 5 yds 


H 

II SI 
5 


2i 

2iSI 

9 


2J 

3VSI 

10 


3i 

3iM 

lOi 


34 

4 M 
114 


4i 

44 SI 
12 


44 

41 SI 
12 


2 ■' 

3 " 
19 " 


Size at waist ... .36 

Sizeat Hip 57 

Width lower edge . 5 yds, 


JJ SI 
5 


2i 
3' SI 

9A 


2| 

3'. SI 
10' 


3^ 

3f M 
lOi 


34 

4M 

114 


4i 

41 SI 
12 


44 

4f SI 
12 


2 " 

3 " 
19 " 


Size at waist 38 

Size at hip 61 

Width lower edge . 5 yds, 2 in 


I* 

2' SI 
6 


21 

3^ SI 
9i 


3 

34 SI 
10 


3i 

4 M 
lOi 


34 

4iM 

114 


4i 

4| SI 
12 


44 

5 SI 
124 


2 " 
3i " 
20 " 


Size at waist 40 

Size at hip 63 

Width lower edge . 5 yds, 9 in 


U 

2|SI 

7 


3 

3ASI 

9i 


3\ 

3JM 

lOi 


3i 

4 M 
II 


31 

44 M 
1 14 


44 

5 SI 
12 


44 

54 SI- 
13 


2 ■' 
4 " 
20 " 



When selecting skirts for stout ladies, clioose those having a 

SKIRTS CONTAIN- large number of gores, if possible, as the more seams there are 

ING NUMEROUS in a skirt, the more slender the effect. A nine, eleven, or fifteen 

GORES gore skirt, with pleats turned forward to the knee, generally 

speaking, looks well on stout figures. 



We find by actual test that by dropping I of an inch at back 
WILL NOT FALL edge of gore at waist line the gores will be drawn back from 2 
FORWARD to 3 inches at bottom edge, and that the narrower the front and 

side gores are made, the less tendency they wUl have to fall 
forward, but whatever amount is deducted from the front and side gores should be add- 
ed to back section, in order that the entire skirt may have sufficient width. 



52 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 



New Revised Scale Giving Exact Figures at Which to 

Mark Gores at Top, Hip, and Bottom Edge, When Drafting 
Seventeen Gore Skirts. 



Upper row of figures ^^ oy, 

show widtb of gore at Ho ^3 

mist, second at hip, * ^ * ■* 

third at bottom edgef9~ S- S 



1=^ 



E> » 



Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge . 


.24 
.42 

.4 yds, 29 in 


js, 

4 


2 

2 SI 
9 


2i 

2iSI 

9 


2i 

21 M 
9 


21, 

24 M 
94 


2} 

23 SI 
94 


23 

23 SI 
94 


3 

3 SI 
10 


1 inch 
24 " 
17 " 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge . 


.26 
.45 
.4 yds, 35 in 


Is, 

4 


2i 

2iSI 

9 


2i 

2JS1 

9 


2J 

2iM 

9J 


10 


2} 

2} SI 
10 


3 

3 SI 
10 


3 

31 SI 
II 


I " 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge . 


.28 
.47 
.5 yds, 3 in 


i 

liSI 

5 


2i 

2} SI 
9 


2i 

2AS1 

9 


2i 

24 M 
9J 


2i 

2JM 

10 


3 

3 SI 
10 


31 

31 SI 
10 


31 

34 SI 
11 


1 " 
24 " 
18 " 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge . 


.30 
.49 
. 5 yds, 6 in 


i\ SI 

6 


21 

21 SI 
9 


2* 

2iSI 

9 


25 

2iM 

9J 


23 

3 -M 
104 


3 

31 SI 
104 


31 

3iSI 

10 


31 

34 SI 
11 


I " 
3 " 
18 " 


Size at waist 

Size at hip -. . . . 

Width lower edge . 


.32 
.52 

.5 yds Sin 


i 

liSI 

6 


2J 

2iSI 

9 


2J 

2JSI 

9 


2i 

2i M 
94 


I'm 

104 


34 

3iSI 

104 


34 

34 SI 
104 


4 

41 SI 
11 


1 " 
3 " 
18 " 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge . 


.34 
.55 
.5 yds, J3 in 


i 

USl 

6 


2i 

2iSI 

9 


2i 

2} SI 
9J 


2J 

3 M 
10 


3 

31 M 
J04 


34 

3} SI 
11 


33 

4 SI 
11 


4 

41 SI 
114 


18 " 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge . 


.36 

.58 

.5 yds, 17 in 


i 

n 81 

6J 


2i 

2iSI 

9J 


2i 

2iM 

9i 


2i 

3 M 
10 


31 

34 M 
J04 


34 

3} SI 
11 


I's, 

114 


43 

51 Si 
12 


14 •' 
3 " 
18 " 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge . 


.38 
.61 

.5 yds, 17 in 


i 

1} SI 
6A 


2H 

24 SI 
95 


23 

2i M 
9i 


23 

3 M 
10 


3 J 

33 M 
104 


33 

4 SI 
114 


41 

41 SI 
114 


41 

5tSI 

12 


14 ■• 
34 " 
18 " 


Size at waist 

Size at hip 

Width lower edge 


.40 
.63 

. . 5 yds, 25 in 


I 

n SI 

7 


2* 

2} SI 
10 


I'm 

10 


3 

31 M 
104 


31 

34 M 
J04 


4 

41 SI 
114 


41 

44 SI 
12 


44 

43 SI 
12 


2 " 
4 " 
19 " 



CIRCULAR SKIRTS 
NOT SUITED TO 
ALL FIGURES 



Circular Skirts will doubtless continue to be quite a favorite, 
especially wlien made of firm, light weight material, for slen- 
der and medium figures, but never for stout, as they are rarely 
ever becoming to such persons. Neither should stout persons 
undertake to wear bodices or skirts made of striped materials, 
where the stripes would necessarily run crosswise, or around the garment. Stripes, 
or ornamentations of any kind, including braid, bands, etc., for stout figures, should 
invariably run up and down, as they have a tendency when thus used, to make the 
figure look more slender. 

Small tucks, on the bias, meeting in the center of front of either skirt or waist, are 
likewise becoming to stout persons. 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 53 

New Revised Scale Giving Exact Figures at Which to 

Mark Gores at Top, Hip, and Bottom Edge, When Drafting 
Nineteen Gore Skirts 



Upper row of figures 0*=j 

show width of gore at go 

waist, second at hip, » 5. 

third at bottom edge ^4k> ^ 



Size at waist 24 i 2\ 2\ 2\ 2\ 2\ 2\ 2\ 24 I inch 

Sizeathip 42 } SI I|SI 1} SI If M IJ M IJ M 2i SI 3 SI 3'SI 3 

Width lower edge . .4 yds, 25 in 3 7 7 7 7 8 8| 9i 9i 16 



Sizeat waist 26 i 2^2} 2\ 2\ 2\ 2\ 2\ 3 \\ 

Sizeathip 45 I SI If SI Ji SI IJ M 2i M 2i M 2i SI 3 SI 3i SI 3 

Width lower edge . .4 vds,26in 4 7 7 7 8 8 9 9i 10 16 



Sizeatwaist 28 i 2\ 2\ 2\ 2\ 2\ 2i 3 3} IJ 

Sizeathip 47 \ SI I| SI IJ SI If M 2i M 2J M 2| SI 3i SI 3i SI 3 

Width lower edge .4yds, 30 in 4 7 7 7 8 8 9 9J JOJ 17 



Sizeatwaist 30 J x2\ 2i 2\ 2\ 2\ 2\ Z 3* 2 

Sizeathip 49 Ji SI l| SI If SI IJ M IJ M 2i M 3 SI 3i SI 3| SI 3i 

Width lower edge ..4 yds, 33 in 4 7 7 7 8 9 9i 9i lOJ 17 



Sizeatwaist 32 J 2\ 2\ 2\ 2\ 2i 2f 3J 3i 2 

Sizeathip 52 IJSI If SI IfSI 2 M '2 M 3"M 3i SI 3i SI 3i SI 3i 

Width lower edge .. 4 yds, 35 in 4 7 7 8 8 9 9J 9J lOJ 17 



Sizeatwaist 34 \ 2\ 2\ 2\ 2\ 2J 3 3^ 3| 2 

Sizeathip 55 HSI 2 SI 2 SI 2i M 2i M 3 M 3i SI 33 SI 4 SI 3J 

Width lower edge ..5 yds, I in ..4 1\ 1\ T^ i, 9 9| 10 JOi J7 



Sizeatwaist 36 I 2i 2i 2\ 24 2| 3i 3^ 4 2 

Sizeathip 58 14 SI 2 SI 2} SI 2| M 2| M 3 M 3i SI 3| SI 4i SI 3i 

Width lower edge ..5 yds, 4 in 5 7^ 74 8 8 9 94 JO lOi 17 



Sizeatwaist 38 li 2\ 2\ 2\ 2i 3 3i 3J 4 2 

Sizeathip 61 If SI 2 SI 2J SI 2i M 3 M 3i M 3i SI 3i SI 4J SI 3^ 

Width lower edge.. 5 yds, 9 in 5 74 74 8 84 94 9i 10 II 18 



Sizeatwaist 40 \\ 24 2J 2| 3 3 3} 3i 4 2 

Sizeathip 63 I|SI. 24 SI 2| SI 3 M 3 M 3i M 3i SI 3| SI 44 SI 3J 

Width lower edge ..5 yds, 14 in 5 74 74 84 9 94 10 lOJ JI^ J8 

The preceeding'^Scale together with general instructions 
NO OTHER SCALES furnished in forepart of Instruction Book, give about all the 

NECESSARY directions possible along the line of drafting gored skirts and 
other Standard Skirts, hence will devote remaining space to 
other features of skirt work. 

It has been our aim and purpose in this book to bring out only such ideas and sug- 
gestions on skirts as will tend to develop and perfect the seeker after such knowledge, 
therefore, we haven't attempted to design or give instructions in drafting some 
one fad or modish article, which may be in style today and out tomorrow, as this is a 
text and not a fashion book. 



54 The Science of Skirt Drafting. 



This slasliinmHoccss wlikli we liavc explained on paye 27 is al- 
STUDY THIS PRO- most iinliiuited in its scope of usefulness to the average dress- 
CESS CAREFULLY maker, as by it she can readily provide for fidlness whenever 

and wherever she wishes it, not only in liounccs but capes, 
collars and otiicr items of cuttini,' as well. To sum it all up, the rule Ls simply this: 
Whenever you wisli fullness for pleats or other purposes in the material slasli, and 
spread apart the pattern at that point sufliciently to allow for the same. 



To pro\ iile fullness for pleats as alluded to in preceding para- 

HOW TO PROVIDE ^raph, spread these pieces apart sufliciently when piiinint,' them 

EXTRA FULNESS on material, to allow for any width pleat > ou ma\ desire, then 

FOR PLEATS wlicii the llounceis cut out and those points brought back to 

position on the skirt, tiie fullness needed for pleats at top will 

be provided for, same as fullness for ripples at bottom. 

The dotted lines in Fig. 3, represent the pieces!, 2, 3, 4, 5, and fi, wiiich have been 
slashed up and pinned on as described in I-Mg, 2, page 29. f lowever, you will note 
that in separating tiiem and extending them out, the original curve at bottom has 
been disarranged, and as they are spread apart one of the lower corners of each 
piece is raised. Therefore, when cutting around tiie bottom edge of flounce proper, 
cut in the shape of a general curve, tuching only the lower points of these pieces, 
as shown by bottom line D in Fig. 3, page 29. 



The dilTerence between size of waLst and hips in 20 to 30 waist 

DIFFERENCE measure will range from 16 to 19 inches, and in sizes from 32 

BETWEEN to 4(1 from 20\ to 23, but the e.xact width of gores and spring 

WAIST AND HIP produced by using the proper curves and scales, as already 

MEASURE explained, will certainly be greatly appreciated by those who 

want to work from an actual hip measure for each gore, and it 

is the only way especially for city dress makers who have out of town customer.^;. 

who cannot call to be fitted. 



One of the most objectionable things about circular skirts 

TO PREVENT CIR- is their tendency to sag. This can be overcome to a consid- 

CULAR SKIRTS erable extent by using a gored lining, cut by placing a straight 

SAGGING. to a bias seam. If the skirt is to be made without lining, this 

can sometimes be overcome by weighting skii't at lower back 

corner and hanging up for several days before finLsJiing. 

If trimmed with braid to give the skirt a gored effect, the braid will usually 
prevent sagging. 



In addition to the Infallible Skirt Cutting Device we manufacture the Perfec- 
tion Tailor System for Waist Cutting. The Perfection Shirt Waist System, also 
the New Century Ladies Tailor method for Jacket and Coat work. These are the 
most practical Systems on the market, hence are very salable. Shall be pleased to 
send you particulars and prices. 



The Science of Skirt Drafting. 55 

Out of the Ordinary, Such as Pleated or Tucked Skirts 

= HINTS ON DESIGNING, ETC ^ 

As dii'ections and scales for drafting from live to nineteen gore skirts, are given in 
this Instruction Boolv, will describe only our method for drafting those having a still 
greater number of gores. The first move will be to take the Skirt Rule and draft a cir- 
cular skirt for a foundation, after the manner described on pages 14 and 15, adding 
whatever is necessary at bottom edge, for greater breadth of skirt. If more desirable, 
however, use the Dartless Circular Skh-t for a foundation, described on pages 19 and 20. 

After Circular draft is made, divide the wide space at waist line into as many nar- 
row spaces as will equal half the number of gores desired, then make plain dots, or 
other marks to indicate the e.xact point where the several lines are to be drawn from. 
As the front and back gore occupy these respective places, they need not be taken into 
accoimt when calculating on the number of lines necessary, as there need be only as 
many lines drawn as there are number of side gores used. 

Ne.xt, divide the wide space at lower edge of circular foundation into just the 
same number of narrow spaces as were laid off at waist line. 

The width of the several spaces, or gores, will necessarily be quite narrow, but 
should gradually increase from first side gore, the widest being over the hip, and just 
back of that point. 

^l 

After marking all the points on lower edge, just as you did at 
HOW TO DRAFT the waist line, where each of the several lines are to be drawn to, 
THE LINES. take front edge of Skirt Rule, with front top slide drawn out, 

and draft all the lines thus marked off, from waist line to bottom 
edge of skirt. 
If the circular skirt with darts is used as a foundation, in order to fit the waist it 
will be necessary to curve some of the lines slightly, preferably those of two or three of 
the side gores, in front and back of the hip. The amount taken up by means of these 
curves, shoidd be equal to that which would otherwise be taken out in darts, or if de- 
sired it could be taken out in small pinch tucks, extending from waist line to hip. 



It is certainly a great art to be able to produce original 

HINTS ON DESIGNING designs, especially of gowns, and very few succeed, but 

OR REPRODUCING doubtless the average dress maker can learn to copy or 

reproduce them, but even to do that well will require 

quite a little time, patience and practice. It is our purpose, however, to render all 

the assistance we can in this direction, by offering tiie following suggestions: 

First, then, before attempting to make a draft of any pattern, found illustrated 
in the fashion books, we would advise every one to provide themselves with what we 
call a " designing block. " Such a block, or foundation, can easily be made for skirts, 
by drafting a circular sku't on a fakly heavy piece of light colored paper, when all the 
peculiar features of the design, including lines to represent pleats, tucks, scallops, 
squares, etc., etc., may first be lightly sketched. 

Before doing any sketching, study the pictiu-e of the skirt carefully, and if possi- 



50 



Tlic Science uf Skirt Dniflintr 



ble note all of its peculiarities, alter wiiich take several iiicasiircs of it, for in tiiai way 
you can ascertain to a reasonable certainty, liow wide or iiow long ciirli part is. W c 
have found in practice that nearly all designs are made on about an i-inch scale, hence 
if the measure taken on the picture be multiplied b\' eigiit, it will be very close to 
the exact length or width. l"or instance if any part should measure J of an inch in 
the picture, it will be quite safe to call it 2 inches. All lines, etc., on "designing block", 
which arc to represent diflcrent features of the skirt, after being carefully sketched out, 
should then be made quite heavy and plain, so that they can be easily seen tlirough the 
pattern paper, which siiould always be thin enough so that the lines, etc., can easily 
be traced. 

By using diflerent colored pencils or crayon when designing or by using full lines 
for one design and dots or dashes for another, quite a variety of skirts can be sketched 
on the same block, before it would be necessary to provide a new one, or do any erasing. 

The ne.xt move should be to pin the thin pattern paper se- 
TO TRACE PATTERN curely to the "designing block" and then mark or trace with 
FROM DESIGN wheel, each line, etc., appearing there, on this pattern paper. 
If sketch consist of pleats, yoke or some other design con- 
nected with yoke, would advise that they be traced out first, and then cut away from 
remainder of pattern. Then mark or trace the lines intended for pleats, tlien fold, and 
pin each one as soon as folded, so as to keep them in position over lines in design. 
Continue the process of tracing lines and folding pleats until skirt is completed, when 
yoke part may be pinned back on to pleated portion, and the whole skirt be measured, 
trimmed and in every way made to conform, at waist, hip and lower edge, to measures 
previously taken. 

The following table gives the exact number of lines 
necessary to be drawn on circular, exclusive of outline, 
when drafting skirts containing from 21 to 32 gores 
inclusive. 



TABLE GIVING NUMBER 
OF LINES in 21 to 32 
GORE SKIRT 



21 gore skirt draw 9 lines thro Circular FoundationJ22 gore skirt draw 9 lines thro Circular Foundation 



23 
25 
27 
29 
31 



with seam in center of front 



24 " " 


10 " 


26 " " 


,, << 


28 " " 


12 " " - < 


30 " " 


,3 ,. 


32 " " 


14 " 



All pleated or tucked skirts can be successfully cut after a 
PLEATED OR pattern drafted in the manner above described, as sufficient 

TUCKED SKIRTS material, for both length and breadth, will be thus amply pro- 
vided for. 
Box pleats, which are always more or less in vogue, can be used not only to give 
pleasing effect, but to provide greater breadth to skirt as well. These pleats, in skirts, 
should be made about Ih inches wide at top, and 3 inches at bottom of skirt. W hen 
greater width of skirt, from knee down is required, fold and then attach two or more 
box pleats, when if skirt is split underneath them, they will add considerably to its 
width. 

m m ^i 

For Agency, Prices or Other Particulars, see General Agent or address ^ 

W. R. WILLIAMS, Proprietor and Manofacttircr, 

1535 Mass. St., LAWRENCE, KANSAS. 



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